GSX1100G making squealing noise after clutch repair

[argonsagas]

I have heard that sound on an 1100G engine after working on the stator...it was the cable keeper clip located inside the stator cover. There is almost no clearance, so if the clip shifts for any reason ..or the bolt is loose or positioned too high, it allows the retainer clip or bolt to contact the flywheel, and that could cause the noise.

The noise changes frequency at higher RPMs and becomes less audible.


Another possible cause is the clutch basket rubbing due to incorrect tensioning during installation.

If the bolts are tightened fully into position at the outset, instead of being torqued in steps so that they all end up equal, that can cause a slight warp in the rear.

[GS1000G Shopper]

It turns out I had a Chrysler fan clutch tool that properly held the pressure plate. The 50mm nut was properly torqued. The GSX-G does not use the same 6 bolt setup as the GS-G, it has two wave washers under the 50mm nut.

I have yet to delve under the valve cover since it is such a hassle to take apart.

[almarconi]

Sounds like you got it sorted out. Sorry couldn't be more helpful.

[850_GS]

Vacuum leak maybe?

[GS1000G Shopper]

I had a Toyota that did that and it was the PCV. I'm not aware that the GSX-G uses a vacuum hose system- I'm not sure where it could leak. As I recall there are caps on each carb, I'll have to look at them.

After pulling the cover and thinking about this (the noise came about after the clutch job and after it started slipping), I think I likely over-torqued the 50mm nut. I'm going to pull the inner & outer baskets, inspect them, and replace the washers/shaft bearing etc. as well as the small and large nuts.

If that does not fix the problem, I'll have to delve deeper.

[almarconi]

First you said:

The 50mm nut was properly torqued.

Then you said

I think I likely over-torqued the 50mm nut.

Well which is it?

I doubt you torqued it down correctly the first time if you had the bike in neutral and did not use the proper tool. More than likely your problem lies in the clutch assembly. It was running fine before you worked on the clutch. After you worked on it, the clutch slipped and started making a lot of noise. Something is probably not assembled correctly or loose.

[GS1000G Shopper]

After pulling the cover and thinking about this (the noise came about after the clutch job and after it started slipping), I think I likely over-torqued the 50mm nut.

When I checked it with the torque wrench, it did not move and the wrench clicked at 70 foot-pounds, so I knew it was not under-torqued. After thinking about it, it occurred to me if the nut was torqued to 80 or even 100+ foot pounds it would have clicked at 70. When I went to take it loose, it seemed like a lot of effort for my air gun, but it is old and I'm sure it does not put out 100%.

I'll know more when I am able to pull the baskets and look everything over. I'm on parts hold for now.

[almarconi]

Who is Paul Harvey

[GS1000G Shopper]

He's known for telling "The rest of the story". It was my way of agreeing with what you posted by referring to something I had posted earlier.

[Guest]

Squeekin?

I suspect that when pieces of the clutch came of the plates, maybe you have the pieces blocking the oil restrictors to the head? Then the cams are eaten along with the rockers and the head itself in the journel area too.
Pull the VC before going any further!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, you will need a new head, cams, and rockers.
Greg

[rustybronco]

Now where have I heard the exact same thing before?

[GS1000G Shopper]

Question for those in the know, will a 2001 GSF1200 Bandit head bolt on & seal on this engine & can I use the stock Bandit cams? I see the valve cover gasket is the same part # but the head gaskets are different.

[Guest]

Bandit?

Yes, the 12Bandit head will go straight on. Cams can be used as well. Though, they may be smaller than the GSXF cams.
But I can get you an individual rocker GSXR1100 head with all the valve train which will also bolt straight on. Since you are NOT racing it and needing larger cams, the individual rockers would not be a problem.
Laters
Greg

[GS1000G Shopper]

I've been focused on other things but wanted to post this for advice for the beloved GSX-G.

There is a 1998 Bandit 1200 head & cams FS now on eBay for $210 shipped. I can buy a 1991 GSX-G with no carbs for $400 (plus the cost of getting it here, probably $200). The engine supposedly ran about 4 months ago & he used the carbs on another bike. I could possibly sell off parts I didn't use to offset the cost.

If the oil restrictor is jammed, it seems like I'll need to flush out the entire engine. I suspect pulling the oil pan would be the best way to oust any large pieces of crud. Looking at the crankcase diagram, the head oil restrictor is #25:

To do this repair, will I need a full gasket set or can I get by with a pan ($16)/base ($15)/head ($75)/valve cover ($20) gasket? This adds up to $126, and a full gasket set is $180.

What's the best course here? Seems like the used engine would be easiest, but of course if it has a problem, I won't likely know until I install it. With the Bandit head being on sale, this is a good cost savings. I'm leaning towards repairing vs replacement. It will be a good deal of work either way.

[Guest]

Opinion

My thought is if you your adept enough to split the cases then maybe repairing it would be cheaper as you don't know what you get with a used engine. And then it gives you the opportunity to put a shorter cam chain as the Bandit does not have an idler between the sprockets. Though, I cannot remember if the "G" uses a roller cam chain or the silent, Hi-Vo type. Maybe it would be simpler to get an older GSXR1100 head instead? Or repair your "G" head? Take it apart first and see before buying more parts.
Laters
G