Cam Lobe postions for shims?

[Steve]

Well, I have tried it, but nobody has shown me what it apparently takes to work it properly.

I carry it with me, waiting for someone to show me how to use it.

.

[7981GS]

Steve, I'll be doing the valve adjustment to one of my bikes real soon.
I will try to get some clear pic's and perhaps a helper to video it.

Daniel

[pete]

Steve, I'll be doing the valve adjustment to one of my bikes real soon.
I will try to get some clear pic's and perhaps a helper to video it.

Daniel

Sounds like a good idea to me Daniel!

The thought of the tool slipping out gave me the willies which is why I didn't even bother trying and just stuck with the cable tie method...

[mothra]

Sorry to drudge up an older thread I made but I have some information which might be helpful. I have discovered a "technique" for the shim tool that some people may find helpful should they decide to use it.

Basically you can use the tool successfully if you follow some general advice which makes the tool more secure. I got this advice from the mechanic who has helped me out so far.

His advice to using the Tappet Depressor tool was this...

Start with the tool facing up, inverted and against the wall of the Cam Bearing Clamps (Bearing Caps) or Upside down (So that the end of the tool can be rotated into place to hold the tappets in a clockwise/counter clockwise motion) Use this bearing clamp as a guide for the tool. Hold the tool firmly against the cam shafts and bearing clamps and use a rotating motion to slip the tool into position. So that you bring it from right to left, then as you are turning the tool place it into position so it is resting on the edge of the cylinder head and not "floating" above it. If the tool is positioned correctly it would be difficult for it to slip using the bearing as a wall and the edge of the cylinder head (Against the gasket seal) for positioning. Only use a rotating motion and not a side to side motion on the tool and it should stay in place and allow you to remove the shims with out "popping out of place"

I don't know if that makes sense to anyone. I am sure my terminology could use some improvement, but that may help people who have this tool and want to try it (or were just curious)

When removing the tool just use a left to right motion and let the tool come off of the bearing naturally with out moving it towards or away from the cam lobe. (Wax on Wax off?)

And the zip tie method will probably remain my choice for next time.

[1948man]

You lost me.

[Sci85]

Ya know, a video would make this all very simple. If I had my head off, I would do one...

Sci85

[tkent02]

Can't stand the zip tie method because it takes so damned long.
With the tool, quick, easy, done.

[apopleptic]

Can't stand the zip tie method because it takes so damned long.
With the tool, quick, easy, done.

How long did it take you? I spent less than a minute per valve with the zip tie method.
**EDIT** I mean less than a minute per valve to insert the zip tie and turn the engine, not necessarily the whole process including the measurement and replacement etc.

[mothra]

Ya know, a video would make this all very simple. If I had my head off, I would do one...

Sci85

yea your right... So next time a Video instead then? Well The mechanic actually did the timing and helped me along with some tips for the tool after I asked about a dozen questions about timing the shim tool and the shims. I thought that I would try to pass them along, of course his version was much better.

I just got it running properly after 2 months of working on it over the weekends myself and then another month at the shop finishing off my handy work and helping with a huge electrical cluster #($(E*#(. Now its working, the valve shims are adjusted, and the new gaskets are seated well. it idles smoothly, doesn't nom nom on Regulators/Rectifiers, dosn't pop fizzle stall or short out... so why mess with a good thing going?

Edit: and yes I took it in, I am always glad to work on it myself, and at least take a stab at it. Occasionally I lack the tools, know how or both to accomplish it all. I'd love to be to a point where I can dismantle top ends, replace cylinder heads, fix valves, and get timing down pat... but I can also do a lot more than I could this summer

[Steve]

Can't stand the zip tie method because it takes so damned long.
With the tool, quick, easy, done.

Just how quick do you want it, Tom?

From the time I open the seat and remove the tank until I fire up the bike is usually less than 45 minutes.

.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Ah yea another noob questions, sorry....

So you'll be happy to know (possibly...) that while working on the tensioner assembly getting that back in order (gaskets) I removed the head gasket, breather cover, and check the timing position (which actually I figured out pretty quickly), and check the shims! A major mile stone to my mechanical learning accomplishment. (I was excited) But I do have some basic basic questions.

Using the "official Suzuki Tappet Depressor Tool" (not my favorite at this point) LOL

I have a problem where it keeps slipping and the Tappets and shim slam right up against the cam lobe. Probably not the best thing... I also seem to have the shims utterly wedged in the Tappet tool? I understand that you are suppose to wedge this tool just so that the larger lip is pushing the edge of the tappet down, and the thinner lip is suppose to allow for enough clearance to get the shims out, which should be removable with some stronger tweezers. The tool should hold in place with the tension of the valve springs and not slip!?

So I put the tool in and it just slips right on off the tappet. I have tried with the flank of the lobe pointing straight up (lobe parallel to valve) and also where its perpendicular to the valve like the pictures in the manual here on adjusting valves. Wedging this tool in there. There has got to be some secret here that I am not doing quite correctly.

I understand where the shims are (the round silver dollar looking thing) And that you can compress the tappets to remove the shims with this tool which will in theory allow you to remove the shims and inspect/replace them, but the magic is just not happening on this one here.

So... What is the secret here with this mysterious "Tappet" tool? LOL

My valves are to tight, (under .03mm Spec on B, C, and D, but A is right around .074mm) for the twin...

Plus every time your tool slips you get a nice splattering of oil on your face. I am about ready to throw in the towel. It seems so simple.. I hate to ask but I am about to give it up.

This vid shows just how god the tool method can be,

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363

[Steve]

This vid shows just how god the tool method can be,
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...54469142545363

Oh, yeah? Watch it closely. When he goes to show how to push the bucket down, it snaps off the side of the bucket.

There is a break in the continuity of the film, meaning he must have tried another time or three, then it continues.
But he slips off the side THREE MORE TIMES before he very tentatively leaves it in place to pull the shim.

Even in an instructional video, there is proof that it does not always work.


So, ... how "good" is the tool? In my opinon, "not very".

[pete]

Oh, yeah? Watch it closely. When he goes to show how to push the bucket down, it snaps off the side of the bucket.

There is a break in the continuity of the film, meaning he must have tried another time or three, then it continues.
But he slips off the side THREE MORE TIMES before he very tentatively leaves it in place to pull the shim.

Even in an instructional video, there is proof that it does not always work.


So, ... how "good" is the tool? In my opinon, "not very".

Wow I just watched the brief bit of that where it keeps slipping off... I would've thrown that tool against the wall I think... makes me very happy to stick with the cable tie method

[Frank Z.]

That video was very VERY painful to watch. Never had bucket-slap with cable-tie method, as learned thru Mr. Matchless tutorial.

[Nessism]

A small screwdriver along side the shim tool keeps it from slipping off. No need to pull the spark plugs. No rotating the engine to remove shims. No foreign material getting shoved in the combustion chamber.