Portdave...just sent an email to Miller bearings like you suggested. Thought it was worth a shot.
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No reply to my email to Miller Bearings but....I did get a reply from the Netherlands! Seems the first site I emailed sent me a reply that he had 8 of the 12 bearings I need. I'm waiting for an invoice...then I think I can get the last 4 bearings from the other Netherlands site.Comment
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For the level of misery involved I would try and get a good used motor.
With gaskets and parts you are into this for about 200 are you not?Comment
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Would these be a partial fix? Better than nothing as it were.
and or
Last edited by Guest; 11-08-2012, 08:34 PM.Comment
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You would need to ask the seller for the thickness measurements or the numbers on the case they came out of so you can find out what color they are.
Original can be any size, all depends on the original case and what was needed to get the right clearance when they machined it.
Super, how do you know what size you need ?Comment
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the shells are color coded. there should be a code stamp on the crank and on the crankcases, then you cross reference the 2 codes to get the right color/size shells needed.
they would still need to be fitted with plastigauge to make sure the clearances are correct.(to allow for any wear in the cases or crank)1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!Comment
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What numbers on the case Mekanix?
I had no idea that shell bearings could be variable per engine live and learn I guess.
12 bearings were mentioned so this would be only a half measure anyway.Comment
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On the back of all the cases I've seen there are letters stamped into them.
like ABBA and AA those are part of the measurements for the crank and balancer bearings.
In the manual it says something like A+B = brown B+C= black C+B= yellow
So don't be surprised to get an engine with ACBC and CB stamped on it or all AAAAAAA.
It all depends on the assembler at the time with that particular engine.
Depending on the bore of the cases and what bearing was required to fill the gap to the right spec.
You can't buy a set of bearings and expect them to work unless you have a set that you know is out of spec.
So if you had a stock brown bearing and you needed allot more you would skip black and go to yellow.
And there is also a code on the crank and balancer that is taken into account too.
The manual shows what combination make what bearing. The tell them apart by the color and each color means a different size.Last edited by Guest; 11-08-2012, 09:24 PM.Comment
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And that's the other part.
You have a code on the crank and a code on the case.
You take code A from the case and code A from the crank and you end up with a Brown bearing,
A+B and you have black and so on.
I don't know the codes for certain, this is just for example but there is a chart in the manual that shows what combination make what size and color.Last edited by Guest; 11-08-2012, 09:06 PM.Comment
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See page 94 or 3-38 in the manual to see what I mean.
And Page 97 or 3-41 for the crank
It goes Green, Black, Brown, Yellow for sizes
Even shows the part numbers and sizes. Pretty good plethora of info!!Last edited by Guest; 11-08-2012, 09:12 PM.Comment
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Jeeprusty..those bearings you listed from eBay have been on there for about 3 months. I just don't want to take a chance with used bearings. I tried measuring the used bearings that came with my new/used rods and couldn't get any kind of consistent measurement with my digital calipers.
Mekanix is absolutely right with the procedure to pick what size bearings. My case has all B's on the outside..which is the I.D. code. The new crankshaft has the code B,B,B,C...with means I need 6 of one color and 2 of another color...don't remember exactly..I think it's 6 brown and 2 yellow...something like that. I don't have my manual handy right now.
So since this is my first engine rebuild, I have enough going on in my head that I feel safer just getting new bearings and not having that as an issue.
I guess my biggest mistake is thinking, "If I'm going to rebuild an engine for the first time, maybe a twin would be easier." Of course, the Tempter was only sold in America for one year but several years overseas. And that would end up being the only twin I happen to have right now....with a bad engine. Just my luck. So that leaves a sparcity of parts here at home and looking for parts from across the pond.
But I'm almost there. Yep, I think I have about $200 in parts right now...not counting these last bearings...soooo...in for a penny, in for a pound.
As for a used engine...the only ones I've found so far are $600 and up...or buy a complete used bike...about the same and up in price. But I was already deep into gaskets, etc anyway. And the Tempter I have is all stock, all there and in pretty nice shape. So there you have it...
And I like a challenge!Comment
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the shell bearing cranks have always been a right PITA.so much work to get em right compared to roller bearing cranks.
dont forget the shell bearing "break in" lubricant when assembling1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!Comment
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Will do...planning to go over everything, start to finish several times in my mind and with the manual before I start. It will be my first engine rebuild and I want to do it right.
The best thing about this is that this bike isn't my main bike. My 82 GS750EZ is my main ride right now. So if I totally screw it up...I will take it apart again and see what I did wrong and go from there.Comment
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Or just shoe horn a DR650 motor in there.......
Kidding sir. Hope you get this motor back up and running.Comment
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