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  • Guest

    #91
    Originally posted by pete
    Good stuff mate, so the mounting bolts for the oil pump are in the same location and the inlet/outlet holes are the same? Another very useful piece of information... We're going to have to compile a list and get it posted on BassCliff's site and the GS Twins Wiki.
    I'll start an excel sheet for the wiki.

    The pump is exactly the same from 80 to 89 for certain.

    I actually disassembled both pumps and used the best of both. Cover from one, rotor from the other, shaft from the other and so on to make the best out of all of them.

    Only difference is that the 500 has a brand name on it and looks like the holes are CNC'd where as the 81 I used looks like it was drilled by hand :P

    So i'd say any newer parts are better than NOS.

    Also the gears on the 500 give more flow.

    The clutch on the 400-450 and 500's are different slightly. But both bolt on and you can install which ever gears you want to from both generations.
    I'd go with the 500.

    I'm actually getting another bottom end with a good drive train so i don't have to change the bearing on the output shaft.
    And I'm going to steal the clutch and oil pump gears off of that one for the Frank :P
    That block has a bad crank but everything else is good and I've already robbed lots of parts from it :P

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    • Guest

      #92
      Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY
      I am fairly certain that the ignition pickup coils are the same as on the 83-86 I4 engines
      Not sure if that helps but it may for future reference if one of the coils goes bad.

      Extremely talented restoration btw.
      I love the kitchen pictures they are so hard core.

      Thanks.

      Seems like Suzuki liked to reuse alot of the same parts.
      I normally use this site to cross reference part numbers. They have the superseded part numbers and OEM from back in the day.

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      • Guest

        #93
        Excellent... now I know what upgrades to look for if anything ever breaks on the 450

        Let's hope I don't need to though!!!

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        • Guest

          #94


          Pipes done in satin ceramic and new grab bar.



          Going to get these stripped and repaint them properly. This one also has, Red, black, silver, blue, black paint on it like the rest of the bike did



          Did some plastic welding tonight and finished off alright but I have to say its an art form !

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          • Guest

            #95
            Good stuff mate, love the pipes!

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            • Guest

              #96
              Not much new.

              Got some SS brake lines from front and back and put them on. Bit of a difference in size !
              The lines are half the diameter of the original and I went with a few extra inches for the hell of it.

              I got blue, thinking back now I think silver would have been the safe bet but I'd say it should look good with the plastics blue.


              Got the other block yesterday and just tore it apart.

              Lets see,,, scrap scrap scrap. Might use that, nah garbage, Next, next next, What a mess :P

              There was so much shavings that it made it through the filter and then through everything including the transmission.
              The jets for the tranny are pretty small. I'm amazed how much must have made it through to have that kind of effect.

              Turns out I could use it to fix mine. I needed the driven gear shaft because my main bearing was sloppy.

              Then again so was this one.


              I got a complete set of cases out of it though and a bunch of small parts which are always useful, eventually that is

              Thinking of cleaning that block up and using it instead of mine.
              Haven't gotten mine back from the strippers yet, I'm thinking of powder coating it but I don't know.

              That means I have to make panels to protect everything. The Grit gets everywhere and the gasket surfaces usually get scuffed up so i'm trying to avoid that.

              I could high heat enamel it and be happy with that too. I mean I have two cases and covers to play with now.


              I was playing around with my old frayed throttle cable. Must have been bored or something.

              I held one end on a battery and scratched the loose frays along the other post until the cable was smooth and all the frays that were sticking out were burnt off.

              Then I hit that small section with some solder.

              It actually fixed it up nicely. Wouldn't be good for any bends but I'd use it for straight sections in a bind. New one is installed now but I'm sure this one will come in handy some day.



              Anyways,

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              • Guest

                #97
                Painted the block. Might bake it now or just let the engine do that when it fires up on its own.

                Installed the volt meter and gear position in the gage bezel but I don't like it.
                It only goes up to 5 and there's no way to get a 6 because of the internal design. I also repainted it black to blend it better. Actually its because I messed up while drilling the holes for the voltmeter.


                Looks like I'm back to the seven segment display and lots of diodes...

                But here's what it will look like.





                Last edited by Guest; 03-18-2013, 11:44 PM.

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                • Guest

                  #98
                  Bugger on the gear indicator! I reckon that German guy's one is the way to go. It'd be easy enough to have the diode setup remote to the display with a short bit of ribbon cable too.

                  The block looks nice...

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                  • Guest

                    #99
                    I'll use this for now to play with but I've got the diode network in the works.
                    I'm sure there is a chip that does it all though.


                    I made some progress tonight.

                    Reassembled the engine and mounted it in the frame.

                    Its starting to look like a bike again.

                    Started assembling the top end and then realized I couldn't do it with the engine base in the frame

                    I managed to get the engine dropped down enough to make it all fit.
                    Then I took it back off.

                    I was speaking to Rich (wera90ex) and he has some pistons and GR cam's that I'd like to use.
                    My cylinders do show slight signs of scratching so it would be for the best to bore it. And the GR cam's is just more things to have fun with.

                    So the top end will stay off until I get that stuff done.
                    Last edited by Guest; 03-19-2013, 11:50 PM.

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                    • Guest

                      #100
                      Nice! And the GR cams are just a slot in replacement? What's the big difference there? More lift or something?

                      That stuff goes over my head but I'm still interested in seeing what difference it makes.

                      If my 450 ever gets tired and I have another bike to commute on, I'd be seriously tempted to spice it up a little more in the power department... I have the pipe and intake to cope with it and am now confident enough with my carbs that I could make it work...

                      I'd probably go solo seat, rear sets, and maybe even clip ons or clubmans if I do that too, but this is all pipe dream stuff at present...

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                      • Guest

                        #101
                        There I s 0.020 difference in lift and I think some duration difference.

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                        • Guest

                          #102
                          Cool, extra lift... what does that achieve exactly? I get extra duration keeps the valves open a little longer to let more air/fuel in and more exhaust gases out, but lift... well I can only think it pushes the valve open more, but that's not really lifting as much as it's pushing down with the lobe... unless of course I'm way off track!

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                          • ben2go

                            #103
                            GR cams give a very insignificant increase in lift and less duration.What the GR cam provides in lift,it looses with short valve open time.Also,the GR cam is only good to 7000rpm and the GS engine is good to 11,500rpm,it can spin to 13,500 with valve spring upgrade.Above 9000rpm a GS engine starts loosing torque.IIRC,Dgyver on GST tried the GR cams in his track bike and the out come was less than bad.All this was discussed over on GST.

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                            • Guest

                              #104
                              Got a link to a perticular thread ? Search feature isn't that great.

                              Comment

                              • ben2go

                                #105
                                Originally posted by Mekanix
                                Got a link to a perticular thread ? Search feature isn't that great.
                                Which part of my last post.The cam info isn't there any more.The valve spring info was.

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