1978 Suzuki GS 400x

[Reed]

I bought a 1978 Suzuki GS 400x a few months ago out in the desert and it was running great until the clutch broke recently. It's my first bike and I have been going to motorcycle maintenance classes as well as doing some of my own wrenching with a manual I bought for the bike.

Anyway, I got a new clutch cable, same length and everything, wasn't paying attention when I took the old one out and forgot how to route it. Not sure if anyone knows. Also, I am not able to adjust the cable correctly so that it is tight enough to only have 4mm of free play. And when I do have it all connected the bike won't kick over and start. Unconnected the cable and the bike starts fine. It's a kick start. What am I doing wrong?

I also bought new sprockets and need to buy a new chain, but I can't figure out the specs of the chain. Any idea where I might find those? The book says I'm not supposed to put on a master link, but instead should take off the rear swing arm to put the chain on, this seems wrong, and it also says I would have to take it to a dealer to remove the bearings in the rear swing arm. Any idea what I should do hear?

Reed

[barnbiketom]

Anyway, I got a new clutch cable, same length and everything,

is the cable the exact one for that bike or just some cable you found.. because it has to be exactly for that bike. same year same model etc.

Nice bike by the way.. hahaa ( I HAVE ONE)

sounds like when 'it won't start'... does the kicker slip instead of catching??

if so then the cable is not adjusted right or the wrong one.. there needs to be FREE PLAY or it will be just as if you are holding the clutch in all the time!!!

after making sure the cable is the correct one, then make sure the bottom end is installed right and the adjusters should be able to make it work right.

[Reed]

hi barnbiketom,

thank you for your reply. it is a cable i bought off bike bandit that matches the one exactly that i took off. the one i took off was working perfectly, but broke on me. when i take the cable off entirely the bike kick starts fine and runs great, it's when i put it on that it will either start and i can drop it into one while rolling without the clutch cable functioning (which is obviously bad for the bike), or as you said the kick start slips and it doesn't work at all, its the same length and everything, not sure if im routing it incorrectly or what (how is yours routed?). also, i can get the 4mm of freeplay required per the manual, even with the adjusters all the way backed out and the clutch push rod pin thing all the way screwed in

any ideas

also out of curiousity, do you know what size chain it needs, i can't find out anywhere, and i really dont want to break it and count them, it looks like it has a master link, but everything i read in the manual said to remove the rear swing arm when replacing the chain and not to use a master link chain

i got new sprockets and would like to replace them as well as the chain

other than that i just want to get a metal as opposed to plastic seat and a brake light would be ideal

[barnbiketom]

something is not right. you don't have it adjusted correctly or something. make sure its in the bottom correctly, and the routing doesn't make much diference whether it's adjusted and working right, but make sure it doesn't rub hot stuff or bind at the forks. i'll look at mine later and think more about it.

[terrylee]

Might check your manual, if like my wife's 450 the clutch pin shouldn't be tightened all the way. On hers you tighten till just snugged down then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. terrylee

[Gorminrider]

I bought a 1978 Suzuki GS 400x a few months ago out in the desert and it was running great until the clutch broke recently. It's my first bike and I have been going to motorcycle maintenance classes as well as doing some of my own wrenching with a manual I bought for the bike.

Anyway, I got a new clutch cable, same length and everything, wasn't paying attention when I took the old one out and forgot how to route it. Not sure if anyone knows. Also, I am not able to adjust the cable correctly so that it is tight enough to only have 4mm of free play. And when I do have it all connected the bike won't kick over and start. Unconnected the cable and the bike starts fine. It's a kick start. What am I doing wrong?

I also bought new sprockets and need to buy a new chain, but I can't figure out the specs of the chain. Any idea where I might find those? The book says I'm not supposed to put on a master link, but instead should take off the rear swing arm to put the chain on, this seems wrong, and it also says I would have to take it to a dealer to remove the bearings in the rear swing arm. Any idea what I should do hear?

Reed

you don't need a mere 4mm of play at the lever's HINGE
You can have more. Some people actually prefer clutch to engage closer to the middle of the lever's pull.
(we are NOT-not talking about the play at the end of the lever!- just the crack that opens at the bolt hinge)

I believe your chain is "530" and about 104 links, but it's best and most common to buy the chain in a box and cut it yourself. Personally, I've never had a chain without the master link .

[Reed]

Thank you

I was able to fix the clutch. I'm not sure what changed, but eventually it worked. It seems to shift faster now than it did before, which causes me to rev super high when I disengage the clutch now. Not sure which way I need to adjust it, but should be able to figure it out.

I'm moving on to sprocket and chain replacement now. They are not too bad, but since the bike is new to me, I want to start fresh. Any recommendation on the the brand of chain / type i should buy, if I want it too last as long as possible. If so, how long could it last?

Reed

[Gorminrider]

Oh, well! good news. I suppose the clutch plates were just dried up from lack of use! this is pretty common when you buy an old bike.

[Reed]

Next on the agenda

Hi all,

So, I have replaced the sprockets and chain on my bike. Ran mystery oil through the tank and engine (appropriate amounts). Changed the oil before doing so and after doing so. Also, I have run Seafoam carb cleaner through the tank as well. Replaced a clutch cable, and replaced the battery fluids.

Attached is a picture of my bike, let me know if it does not come through. I bought her for $2,500 out near Edwards Air Force Base. To me she was totally worth it. She is pretty damn loud, but in a good way, especially in terms of safety.

Next up:
Tires (what kind should I get?), Battery Leads (where would I find these?), Wiring in General, Fork Seals (remove and take to a store?), Brake Light (ideas?), Seat (ideas?), Brakes, Carbs, Mixture adjustment, Clutch replacement?, Air intake filter, etc..

I went through the bike with my mechanic, and he said my tires are a bit try and that i have a few oil leaks, one near the kick starter, one on the fork seals, and one near where the exhaust pipes mount the engine, on the left side, there is a small cup like think screwed on to the engine on each side, he also said i would get more power if i got thicker wire leads to my battery

currently i have no break light and just a small led tail light on one side of the bike where the license plate is

my seat is also made of fiberglass and just a small piece of foam stuck to the top with adhesive

the air box will no longer come out easily, because the bike frame has been chopped and it now sits under part of the metal frame, i can take out just the foam filter though, if you recommend me cleaning it

the bike is running rich right now and back fires when i let off the gas, so i need to adjust the mixture, my understanding is the easiest way to fix this is to buy a colorometer and view it through the spark plug hole

the clutch does still not feel absolutely right to me, i don't know if i need to adjust the cable or not, or if it has to do with the actual clutch, my mechanic thought it was ok when he was putsing around the parking lot, but when i rip through the gears it doesn't always feel right, he did think the cable was a little long because i have clubmans now, he thought perhaps i needed a custom cable

he thought the front brake (drum) was a bit weak, but when we replaced the back sprocket we looked at the rear drum and it was good, we lubed the front brake line and it improved slightly, but maybe i need to replace the pads

also within 24 hours of me replacing the sprockets and chain, someone not only tipped over my bike, bending the clubmans, left foot peg, and left clutch lever foot and hand, and license plate mounting bracket, but stole some of my tools, not sure what else could be damaged, super frustrating

anyway, I'm having a lot of fun working on her, found an impact driver at a thrift store, solid metal from the 70's for sure, bought it for 10 bucks, could have prolly got it for less, still an awesome tool and find i thought, i had bought one from harbor freight earlier, that had lasted all of two hits

Reed

[koolaid_kid]

Wow, that is quite a list.
Sorry to hear about the drop and theft. Jerks.
I can answer one question for you: colortunes do not work well with CV carbs. What you want is a carbtune. Same company, different product. This allows you to balance the carbs.
AFA the mixture, that depends on the range.
On those carbs you can change out the main jets and adjust the mixture screws. To dial in the mains you need to do plug chops. To adjust the mixture screws use the procedure in my signature.

[Gorminrider]

ditto on the jerks...bikes are sadly exposed to the evils of the human race.

by the way, don't cafe racers need fork-braces too?...I mean, I'd have a chopped front fender in there at the least....?

[Reed]

Unexplainable loss of power

been riding her all summer every other day or so for a few miles, and I came back to her today after the weekend, and she has now power, doesn't quite sound the way she used to, revs up and switches through the gears, makes the sound of going fast, but no longer moves very fast

any ideas?