78 GS1000 has become an oil burner

[Guest]

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Last winter I pulled the head of my 78 GS1000 for a valve job, because the bike was emitting a small amount of blue smoke under throttle. The cylinders still had significant cross hatch. The machine shop confirmed that all the valve stem seals were old and worn, two had decayed, and therefore I thought that was the source of oil being burned.

I reassembled everything per Clymers and torqued everything to spec. I did not remove the cylinders and therefore did not install a new base gasket. Shortly after reassembly, but not right away, the bike started puffing a bit of smoke at startup. Oil consumption increased. At all times the bike ran really well other than progressively burning more oil. So, tonight I pulled the head. Each piston is relatively clean, but each combustion chamber has significant oil deposits, less than 1000 miles after the head work was done. What seems odd, at least to me, is that oil is pooled around the front corner studs, and appears to have migrated towards center and inward. Home and Groups plugs show having burned oil. Forum and Blogs not nearly as much.

Is it possible for oil to move up the area around the engine studs, and then migrate under or over the head gasket then seep into the cylinders? If so, what is the solution? Possibly a new base gasket and any o-rings that go under the cylinders?

Thanks very much. I will try to post photos.

[Guest]

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[Nessism]

Pull cylinder. Hone with bottle brush hone. New rings. New OEM gaskets and seals. And check the valve stem seals to see if they are holding up. Replace with viton seals if they have come loose or look damaged.

After the first couple heat cycles, retorque the head. And continue that until successive checks show the torque is not falling off.

[Suzukian]

I was thinking about re-torquing the head too. Once the pressure is off the base gasket, I don't usually trust them. Get that carbon off of the cylinder heads chambers. It will really improve the performance of your bike. Everything Nessism said is right on the money. You have to check the torque after you get a couple of 1000 miles on it. Follow the torque pattern. Clean the top of those combustion chamber off!! Polishing the valves on the wide (don't touch the valve seat, check, but don't polish them) end will help the carbon not stick and top of the combustion chamber will flow smoother .

[Guest]

Pull cylinder. Hone with bottle brush hone. New rings. New OEM gaskets and seals. And check the valve stem seals to see if they are holding up. Replace with viton seals if they have come loose or look damaged.

After the first couple heat cycles, retorque the head. And continue that until successive checks show the torque is not falling off.

Thank you. Can U point me to OEM gaskets?

[Suzukian]

https://www.denniskirk.com/gaskets-a...uki-gs1000.mmy They have the end plugs separate.

[1978GS750E]

https://www.denniskirk.com/gaskets-a...uki-gs1000.mmy They have the end plugs separate.

DON'T USE THOSE GASKETS!

Buy OEM gaskets from someone like Rocky Mountain ATV or another OEM parts supplier. You'll be happier in the long run! Just my opinion!

[Nessism]

Parts Shark, Partszilla, are good sources for OEM. Before ordering, get the PN and search eBay for a good price.

[Suzukian]

These guys are right, OEM is always better. I'd go to a dealer. Some have these gaskets sitting around a long time, they are in plastic, out away from the sun's u.v. rays, you can get better deals.

[Guest]

Found and bought this

[Michael Graziosi]

I frequently use suzukipartsmonster.com for OEM parts. In the last 3 years I've purchased OEM parts for a '78 GS750, '01 busa and more recently an '01 SV650. Competitive prices and acceptable shipping cost and delivery time.

[Guest]

Thank you. Every OEM parts supplier I have tried shows OEM head gasket unavailable, other than Rocky Mountain ATV. I will inspect the OEM that I bought on Ebay, then order from Rocky if necessary.