Time for a new clutch
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I agree, probably best to get new frictions. Not only would sanding probably bring them below spec, but I also fear they'll start coming apart. As I mentioned before the material is quite brittle and was coming apart as I clean the plates off. Im a tightwad as well and like to save where I can, but I'll admit I end up going through more frustration and expense trying to save a buck sometimes. Occasionally it's worth spending the money upfront to avoid the hassle and other potential issues.
- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgotten -
I agree with what you're saying. The only caveat with factory specifications is they cannot always capture all possible variables. In this case the measured thickness is within the acceptable range, but what cannot be easily measured is other ways the material has degraded due to time and heat cycles etc. Being the material is glazed, brittle and near the end of acceptable thickness, I think replacement is probably the right course of action. Especially considering I've already addressed all other possible causes of a slipping clutch. This is all there is left to do.For me, clutch plates at, or below, factory spec., does not mean the clutch is already slipping as this one was. The factory spec. tells you it's time to maybe replace so it doesn't start slipping.....Telling you problems are getting near. Kind'f like the factory spec. for brake rotors, they tell you the rotors are nearing the time they may (could) cause a problem. Would be no reason for the min. spec. if the item had already failed when it got to min. spec. Plus they will always give themselves a little wiggle room for safety and for selling more replacements.- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgottenComment
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How similar are the clutches on the 1978 gs1000 to your clutch? I’m finding two different types of friction plates on mine. I believe it’s the original.Comment
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- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgottenComment
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Aging of the material might also manifest in shrinkage and compaction. And 40plus years must impact the adhesive.
I agree with what you're saying. The only caveat with factory specifications is they cannot always capture all possible variables. In this case the measured thickness is within the acceptable range, but what cannot be easily measured is other ways the material has degraded due to time and heat cycles etc. Being the material is glazed, brittle and near the end of acceptable thickness, I think replacement is probably the right course of action. Especially considering I've already addressed all other possible causes of a slipping clutch. This is all there is left to do.1983 GS 550 LD
2009 BMW K1300sComment
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21441-49002

is the part number. Fiche shows only one number for all but the latest number supersedes #s 21441-49000
and 21441-49001
which may look different but obviously still fit.
1983 GS 550 LD
2009 BMW K1300sComment
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No way to never argue about changing any normal wear items that are 40 yr. old.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100Comment
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What oil are you using with your EBC clutch? I was reading the Q&A on EBC frictions and they specify NOT to use synthetic oil with the plates unless it is motorcycle specific. I've been using Rotella T4 which I believe is a synthetic blend. Will I be able to continue using this oil with EBC?
- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgottenComment
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I've been using semi and full synth for the past decade. Mostly car and diesel oil, with only a couple changes using bike-specific oil, when it was priced right.
What oil are you using with your EBC clutch? I was reading the Q&A on EBC frictions and they specify NOT to use synthetic oil with the plates unless it is motorcycle specific. I've been using Rotella T4 which I believe is a synthetic blend. Will I be able to continue using this oil with EBC?
Currently using Mannol 10w40 car and diesel synth, which has a Jaso MA rating also.Dave
'79 GS850GN '80 GS850GT
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car windowComment
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- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgottenComment
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Thanks for the reassurance. I'll get those clutch discs on order ASAP. I'm missing out on some great riding weather!- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgottenComment
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Guest
The only time I have replaced the steel plates is when they warp. I pull the pack, clean the steels and squeeze them all together with my hands. When I hold them up to the light, if I see any gaps then I replace the bad ones. I wouldn't think you would ever see something like this.
Brand wise, I tried a few different ones but pretty much stuck with OEM.Comment
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Always heard lay plates on a sheet of glass, to check for warpage, I guess glass is always supposed to be flat.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100Comment
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That's what the factory manual says to do. I've seen glass with waves so I thought it was interesting they specify a pane of glass. I didn't bother, I held them together like what was previously suggested and didn't see anything obvious.
I tightened the hub nut yesterday, and ordered clutch frictions. The EBCs were out of stock everywhere I looked, but lucked out and found 1 set on ebay and ordered it. $69 with free shipping so that's a fair price compared to OEM. Hopefully they will solve my clutch issue.- 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
- 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgottenComment
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