Engine tick/tapping noise only taking off in gear

[Suzukian]

Good video, I looked at it, very clear. I'm kind of picky about things. If you could check the hub "radially" with a gauge, and see if when going in a circle, it has play, that compounded with the play on the spline would indicate that is where your problem is. I do think this is where your problem is, it not, you just found a problem. . Under load you don't hear it as it is forced against the surface, and just progressively wears out of round more. IMHO

Take the out hub off and look at the inside splines on the outer cage, and look at the splines of the shaft. I would bet the Outer hub is worn. If you could mount it on a lathe or milling machine, you could check the splines to see just how much, you can't fix it, but you would know that you next search on EBAY would be.

[Stephenabner]

Heres a video of the play, hopefully the old farts haven't lost their sight too.

https://youtu.be/C6ZaTo56zB4

[Stephenabner]

So the clutch steels and friction plates are out and I noticed the rear hub/inner basket (whatever you call it) that the drive gear connects to has some slight inner and outer play, and slight side to side play. To me it doesn't seem excessive, but honestly, I'm not sure how much play is too much.

I'll record a video of the play and upload it, for now, I'm going to continue pulling the hub off.

[rphillips]

Also want to put this in there, but don't know how to copy and paste. Google says, steel threads in alum threads can interact with a galvanic action and can micro weld to each other. This can cause serious problems especially with steel bolts and spark plugs in alum. cylinder heads. That's why so many GS's have had fixes like Suzukian mentioned. For me, if the steel stud is gets micro welded in the head, the nut being steel like the stud, there should be no micro welding at that point plus it's much easier to get penetrating oil on both sides of the 1/8 thick nut threads than it is to get a good dose of penetrating oil down in those threads that are appx 1/2" deep down in the head. Yes, if you've already ruined the threads in the head, as he and many others have done and installed steel Heli-Coils, the bolts should come out much easier with no micro welding. Of course just an opinion... Be sure to get "ALL" pieces the old gasket out.

[rphillips]

That piano wire, I've heard, read, and wondered about it for yrs., but have heard no reason for it, that made sense... Something else about the ex. gaskets. The OEM gaskets get baked in there and become tight "AND HARD" many times there can be a small layer or piece of the old gasket still stuck in there. It will look like alum. and when scratching on it with a pick or screwdriver still looks and feels like alum. but is a piece of old gasket...

[Suzukian]

On my Suzuki all the studs broke off. I Heli-Coiled all 8 holes, and replaced them with number 8 hardness bolts. No leaks, and the exhaust comes off as easy as it goes on. Those studs hanging in front of the engine get a lot of reasons to corrode.

When I do a clutch, I remove the inner and outer basket. I don't know how far you got into it. Clutch plates have a line on the edge, I stagger those each other steel plate, so that the compression is happening around the whole circle of the clutch. I just watched a video where the guy put in his clutch with the "line" marks all lined up. I was camped next to "Team Suzuki" and made friends with once of the mechanics, and he told me to do this. I have on every bike I have done a clutch one. If off sets the pads so by the time they are all installed, the clutch is engaging all points, in a spiral. My clutches last on average around 40K miles on my 3 bikes, and the others I have done for customers are still riding them and never had a complaint.

I don't understand the "Piano Wire" you speak about. Are you referring to the one wire clip?

[rphillips]

I went back to listen again, at lo volume (as I had it the other night) I hear nothing, as I turned the volume up, the tick was very noticeable. When I heard it I's with Grim, sounds like exhaust leak, but not sure if an ex. leak would only happen when starting to apply pressure the drive train.... Just say'in, s you're working on them anyway, something that has worked great for me is to replace the ex. bolts with studs and nuts. It gives you something to hang the ex. on while installing, nut much easier to get started without cross threading and easier to get penetrating oil on than the bolt that is way down in there, and 1/2 the chance of twisting off coming out.

[Stephenabner]

So I inspected the chain and sprockets last night. Everything looks good to my eyes. But I may go ahead and replace them anyway. I want this bike to be absolutely perfect. Which it won't be lol

Today when I get off work, ill pull the clutch basket out and inspect the springs. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks

[Suzukian]

The Factory Manual will have the length of the Springs for the clutch. Personally, I always replace my clutch springs and stick with stock clutch parts. As far as the chain goes, you're the one next to the bike, and it takes seconds to check out the chain, so what's the big deal?

That the tick goes silent under load takes you away from the valves or pistons. Since the clutch was the last thing you did, just back trace your steps and you will find the problem. That the sound goes away under load seems to indicate something loose.

[GregT]

Check the clutch again. Sounds like the noise occurs as the load is taken up. Which may point to the cush drive in the back of the clutch. You may have partially collapsed springs in there. Not uncommon on high mileage motors.

[Cipher]

yeah ok well theres a regullar tick tick tick tick tick then again like four ticks then silence then four ticks. This forum does not allow fro easy attachments one assumes as a security measure

[Stephenabner]

I remember reading about the starter bolts or something of that nature that can come loose over time and cause a noise, but I can't seem to find the post anymore. Can someone chime in on this?

[Cipher]

ripped audi from youtube and dropped bass out with an EQ. I could have cut it out but could not figure it out. So yeah thats no drive chain slap.
I hope site lets me upload

[Stephenabner]

Sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
An exhaust leaking at the port can sound just like mechanical mayhem.

I was actually thinking about this too. I read a couple of posts that stated an exhaust leak could make a noise that sounds like a loose tappet or timing chain.

The gaskets included with the Delkevic exhaust were the circular copper style, which are totally different from OEM. I just ordered some OEM manifold gaskets. They're cheap, so what the hell lol

I'll let you know what happens

[Cipher]

definitely not a drive chain slap. My hearing sucks too so I mucked about a bot with Audacity and removed the bass rumble. could not figure how to cut it out altogether there is most definitely a tick there. give this a listen if the site lets me upload it.