1978 gs1000 clutch not engaging after rebuild

[Blue_magician]

Hey guys, basically I rebuilt the clutch with all new clutch hub, clutch fibers and steels. Got it all buttoned back up to torque specs and now my clutch won’t engage, it’s stuck in neutral. When I got the bike a few months ago I couldn’t ride it because it had a fiber plate explode inside. So I really don’t have a good basis to start as far as feel goes. I think I went wrong somehow with installing the cable arm back on but I’m not sure how I would’ve messed it up.

[Rob S.]

If they were minute hands on a clock, my cable looks like 5 after, and my arm looks like 20 before twelve. My bike is a 1982 11E.

That is when standing on the right side of the bike, facing it at 90 degrees.

[rphillips]

When you squeeze the lever, do you see the arm moving and feel the spring resistance?

[Blue_magician]

There’s tension on the clutch but I feel as if the arm barely moves back. Attached is a picture of the clutch being pulled and and released.

[Rob S.]

I think your arm needs to be moved a little counter clockwise.

[rphillips]

Agreed, the arm should be where a complete pull of lever gets the longest motion on the arm. When lever released, is there any slack in the cable?

[Fergie1000S]

Hi, I have the same problem. I can’t get the clutch thrust piece to locate with the clutch release. I think that is your issue too. Does anyone have a solution?

[rphillips]

Not sure but thinking the whole clutch cover wouldn't go on if those gears weren't engaged. When installing, the gears (teeth) on the shaft coming out of the hub has got to be facing straight back so when installing the clutch cover, and clutch release shaft, the gears will engage... How about disconnecting the cable at the arm and using adjustable (crescent) wrench, on the arm, see if it can be moved in and out completely and smoothly, if it can, I'd think the cable is probably the problem. I'm no mechanic, just my thinking.

[Fergie1000S]

I thought the same, but I can fit the casing ok. The arm moves back but will not spring back.

[rphillips]

When you squeeze the lever then release it, how much free play is there between the bottom end of the cable housing and the little arm?

[Blue_magician]

There’s an 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play in the clutch before I feel resistance. There’s no play at the arm with the clutch released. I put the arm as far counter clockwise at it will allow me. Do you think the clutch needs to be loosened now that it’s a brand new clutch back to original tolerances?

[rphillips]

Just sitting there there should be a little slack at either end of the cable. After squeezing and releasing the lever there should be slack at both ends again. if not something is wrong with the cable or how the cable is routed. I don't see a reason to not try the adjustable wrench thing, just to see if the arm and inner hub is working properly.

[Blue_magician]

I put a vice clamp on where the arm attaches to on clutch, pulled it as far back as it would go while putting the shifter down into first. The bike’s neutral light turned off but no power went to the wheels it was like the bike was still in neutral.

[rphillips]

I'm getting confused... with the end of the little arm, where the cable is attached, pushed in toward the middle of the bike, you should not have power to the rear wheel. With the little arm pulled out, as far as it will go, without the cable holding it at all (needs some slack in there) there should be power to the rear wheel... How are you checking things? Do you have the bike up on the center stand and the rear wheel up off the ground?

[Cipher]

There’s an 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play in the clutch before I feel resistance. There’s no play at the arm with the clutch released. I put the arm as far counter clockwise at it will allow me. Do you think the clutch needs to be loosened now that it’s a brand new clutch back to original tolerances?

Yes absolutely yes