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    Shaft driven GS clutch adjustment

    How does one adjust clutch on a GS650G? I am not seeing anything on it in the service manual. With chain driven bikes there’s an adjustment rod on the left side of the bike, but my bike doesn’t have it.
    1982 Suzuki GS650G project in BRG
    2004 Honda CRF250r
    2010 HD FatBob in Black
    2007 HD XL883L in Maroon - sold
    2008 Kawasaki Versys 650 daily rider in Red - sold
    2006 Triumph Bonneville America in Grey - sold

    #2
    The only clutch adjustment on your bike is for cable free play, which can be adjusted either at the hand lever, or at the crankcase, where the cable is anchored by the clutch cover.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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      #3
      Don't think any adjust on clutch, you just adjust the cable.
      1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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        #4
        Try to adjust the clutch cable.

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          #5
          Got it. 2-3mm cable free play should do it? The reason I ask is because my clutch seems to be dragging just a bit. It’s not enough to push the bike forward when it’s on the ground but it’s enough to spin the wheel when on a center stand. Also the engagement point seems to be at the very end of the lever travel.
          1982 Suzuki GS650G project in BRG
          2004 Honda CRF250r
          2010 HD FatBob in Black
          2007 HD XL883L in Maroon - sold
          2008 Kawasaki Versys 650 daily rider in Red - sold
          2006 Triumph Bonneville America in Grey - sold

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by igoldin74 View Post
            ... not enough to push the bike forward when it’s on the ground but it’s enough to spin the wheel when on a center stand. ...
            Even with FULL disengagement, there is enough drag with all the oil in the housing that the rear wheel is quite likely to move. Won't take much more than a light grab with your hand to stop it, and putting the bike on the ground will definitely stop it (without moving the bike forward).
            If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.

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              #7
              On the 650 shanties, best to first orient the clutch lever arm so that it angles slightly inward as in picture. Then fiddle with cable . When all is well, you get push on lever arm and get a small bit of play before you feel clutch engage.
              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
              This gallery has 1 photos.
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                #8
                Originally posted by igoldin74 View Post
                Got it. 2-3mm cable free play should do it? The reason I ask is because my clutch seems to be dragging just a bit. It’s not enough to push the bike forward when it’s on the ground but it’s enough to spin the wheel when on a center stand. Also the engagement point seems to be at the very end of the lever travel.
                You can try adding a smig more freeplay, until the release point is where you prefer.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by igoldin74 View Post
                  ...enough to spin the wheel when on a center stand
                  Completely normal.

                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                    #10
                    This is how clutch arm is position on my bike right now:
                    Clutch arm by Juleb Jakarta, on Flickr
                    1982 Suzuki GS650G project in BRG
                    2004 Honda CRF250r
                    2010 HD FatBob in Black
                    2007 HD XL883L in Maroon - sold
                    2008 Kawasaki Versys 650 daily rider in Red - sold
                    2006 Triumph Bonneville America in Grey - sold

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The idea is to get the arm to move as far as possible with a complete pull of the lever. I'd say yours is fine, but if it were mine, I'd turn it out another spline or two. Just my opinion. but want get the most movement of the arm.
                      1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by igoldin74 View Post
                        This is how clutch arm is position on my bike right now:
                        Clutch arm by Juleb Jakarta, on Flickr
                        I'd definitely move that out at least one more spline.
                        ---- Dave
                        79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                        80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                        79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                        92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                        Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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                          #13
                          We don't want any slack on the shaft itself, only on the cable, correct? E.g. I should turn the shaft all the way until it reaches a stop point and then put on the arm?
                          1982 Suzuki GS650G project in BRG
                          2004 Honda CRF250r
                          2010 HD FatBob in Black
                          2007 HD XL883L in Maroon - sold
                          2008 Kawasaki Versys 650 daily rider in Red - sold
                          2006 Triumph Bonneville America in Grey - sold

                          Comment


                            #14
                            There should be very little turning of the shaft when the arm is off. Be sure play in cable, take out little pin and disconnect cable from arm, take bolt out of arm, raise arm off of shaft, watching closely where it is presently, then move it 2 splines to the right, slide it back down onto shaft, reinstall bolt. You will need to adjust a little more slack in the cable so it is easily reconnected. After completed, check free play of clutch lever and adjust there if needed.
                            1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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