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    GS550 Valve Clearances

    Hello all,

    I'm trying to chase down what is causing my GS to have hard starting issues. I have a bit of a head gasket leak and slightly low compression, but in the interest of looking for the easiest thing to fix first, I'm investigating valve clearances.

    The manual says to have between 0.03 & 0.08mm clearance in one of two positions (egg up or on its side). I would assume that these postions would give the same reading but mine seems to vary quite a lot between the two positions. i.e 0.07mm differnce between the two positions in several cases, and none that give the same reading.

    Assuming this to be a problem, what could be causing it? Wonky cams?

    There are a couple of underspec valves which I believe will cause hard starting
    1979 GS550

    #2
    This is the correct way to position the cams. Use .05mm as your minimum. It's perfectly safe to use .12mm as the upper limit. Loose protects the engine. I'd target .08mm or so.

    1) Rotate engine until #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward, parallel to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 exhaust valves.
    2) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward........................................... ..............................#4 & #3 exhaust valves.
    3) Rotate engine until #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 intake valves.
    4) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing straight up................................................ ................................#4 $ #3 intake valves.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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    Comment


      #3
      I measure with the lobe in the up position and I look for something above .06mm. My feelings are that anything under .06mm is too tight. I look for between .08 and .10. I do live in Florida USA and I factor this into my adjustments as it can get hot here.

      Although Nessim is absolutely correct with the procedure, I do mine one at a time just for safe keeping. I've done this on several 8V engines with no issues.

      If you still have points ignition, please check these as well. Check your spark plug caps - you can disassemble and clean. If you have a DVOM, check for resistance.
      Current:
      1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
      1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
      1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
      1998 Chevy C2500
      1999 Rav4

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by unfocused View Post
        I measure with the lobe in the up position and I look for something above .06mm. My feelings are that anything under .06mm is too tight. I look for between .08 and .10. I do live in Florida USA and I factor this into my adjustments as it can get hot here.

        Although Nessim is absolutely correct with the procedure, I do mine one at a time just for safe keeping. I've done this on several 8V engines with no issues.

        If you still have points ignition, please check these as well. Check your spark plug caps - you can disassemble and clean. If you have a DVOM, check for resistance.
        The factory specified cam positions are best, because they assure that the adjacent valve to the one you are measuring is not depressed. If the adjacent valve is depressed, the spring will push up on the cam, skewing it in the journal clearance. This results in your measured valve reading more than it should by .03mm or so.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post

          The factory specified cam positions are best, because they assure that the adjacent valve to the one you are measuring is not depressed. If the adjacent valve is depressed, the spring will push up on the cam, skewing it in the journal clearance. This results in your measured valve reading more than it should by .03mm or so.
          With all due respect - I was just adding how my adjust my valves.
          Sorry if you feel I've added something wrong but it works for me.

          I'll show myself the door and stop coming here




          Current:
          1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
          1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
          1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
          1998 Chevy C2500
          1999 Rav4

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by unfocused View Post

            With all due respect - I was just adding how my adjust my valves.
            Sorry if you feel I've added something wrong but it works for me.

            I'll show myself the door and stop coming here
            I did not insult you, I simply pointed out why positioning the cams such as you do will lead to incorrect measurements. Do as you wish. Just realize that many newbies come here to learn how to maintain their bikes, so our posts can, and often will, influence how others go about these tasks.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by unfocused View Post

              With all due respect - I was just adding how my adjust my valves.
              Sorry if you feel I've added something wrong but it works for me.

              I'll show myself the door and stop coming here



              Grow up ffs. The fsm procedure was pointed out as being preferable.
              1983 GS 550 LD
              2009 BMW K1300s

              Comment


                #8
                As usual, Nessism is absolutely correct. Unfortunate that someone who has been here almost five years did not recognize that.
                I ride many bikes.
                Some are even Suzukis.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Nessism View Post

                  The factory specified cam positions are best, because they assure that the adjacent valve to the one you are measuring is not depressed. If the adjacent valve is depressed, the spring will push up on the cam, skewing it in the journal clearance. This results in your measured valve reading more than it should by .03mm or so.
                  For the first 20 years of GS ownership I was using the simple method and it worked fine, however I was always aiming for the max clearance to get more time between checks. Turned out the type of use I was giving the bikes (long continuous runs at steady revs) was conducive to long intervals between necessary changes. So that worked out fine for me.*
                  However, when the bikes retired from that life and became more used in a general capacity and got more rev-happy, I found the gaps closing up more rapidly. Not by an alarming amount, just more like Suzuki expected them to.
                  For the past decade I've used the workshop method as espoused by Nessism and been happy enough with it.

                  * Oh, and the longest I ever chanced between checks using the first method (and long-distance useage pattern) was around 20K. I'd previously checked them at 10K, found no change, checked another 15K later and nothing... so the valves settled down under that regime and finally started to show some changes around 20K.
                  ---- Dave
                  79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                  80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                  79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                  92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                  Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hmm, I just did this on my 81 650GS and thought I was good to go, followed the book, which looks something like what Nessism posted above. Should I be concerned that I am too tight?
                    Intake 1 - 4: 0.03, 0.06, 0.07, 0.05 and exhaust 0.07, 0.05, 0.04, 0.06
                    I figured being in the book range of 0.03mm-0.008mm was the golden ticket but it was mentioned above 0.06mm to 0.12mm is better. Engine has a rattle at 5000rpm that I thought was the cam chain but could it be because of the tight clearances?
                    My daily fun bike 03 Kawasaki ZR7S
                    My project 81 GS650GL, maybe a racer, maybe a scrambler, who knows
                    My future project 81 GS650G bike in a box

                    Comment


                      #11
                      From what I’ve always read, you have more to worry about with valve clearance being too small and less noisy.
                      Rich
                      1982 GS 750TZ
                      2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                      BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                      Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
                        From what I’ve always read, you have more to worry about with valve clearance being too small and less noisy.
                        Slappy valves are happy valves
                        Roger

                        Current rides
                        1983 GS 850G
                        2003 FJR 1300A
                        Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400

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