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hard to put bike into netural when bike is running

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    hard to put bike into netural when bike is running

    So I finally got around to putting my bike(1981 gs850g) back together after checking valves. Runs so much better except it's really hard to put it in neutral when the bike is running. I can do it with my hand but not my foot. It works if the bike is not running. I did a google search and found a forum post from 2012 on this site about replacing a spring? The strange thing is that I've had this bike for years and it's never been an issue, not sure if it's from it sitting up or maybe I just got used to the shifting on my kawasaki. I did replace the clutch cable but the clutch feels ok, like it will engage and shift between the other gears. Kinda stumped and I'm so close to having the bike back on the road so any advice would be appreciated.
    1981 GS 850G

    sigpic

    #2
    Frequent issue. I do not even try.

    Kill switch to "engine off", kill switch to 'engine on'. Kick into neutral (green light); Turn key off and remove.

    It has the added benefit of testing the kill switch and enhancing your proficiency in using it when suddenly needed.

    Believe in truth. To abandon fact is to abandon freedom.

    Nature bats last.

    80 GS850G / 2010 Yamaha Majesty / 81 GS850G

    Claimed by Hurricane Irma 9/11/2017:
    80 GS850G / 2005 Yamaha Majesty / 83 GS1100E / 2000 BMW R1100RT / 2014 Suzuki DL650

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      #3
      Adjust your clutch cable.
      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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        #4
        Reducing the clutch cable free play, so the clutch disengages further when you pull the lever, may help. If not, your clutch plates are likely dragging because they are warped. I had the same problem on one of the GS1000's I restored, and after changing both the friction and steel clutch plates, neutral was easy to find.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Reducing the clutch cable free play, so the clutch disengages further when you pull the lever, may help. If not, your clutch plates are likely dragging because they are warped. I had the same problem on one of the GS1000's I restored, and after changing both the friction and steel clutch plates, neutral was easy to find.
          i will double check this I replaced the cable and had issues adjusting cables
          1981 GS 850G

          sigpic

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            #6
            Do you have a manual? There's a bit more involved in properly adjusting the clutch other than the cable, you'll need to get inside the cover that the cable goes into to do it. It's not that difficult to do, just get a manual and follow the directions.
            1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
            1982 GS450txz (former bike)
            LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

            These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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              #7
              Originally posted by LAB3 View Post
              Do you have a manual? There's a bit more involved in properly adjusting the clutch other than the cable, you'll need to get inside the cover that the cable goes into to do it. It's not that difficult to do, just get a manual and follow the directions.
              You're thinking 450. The 850 doesn't use the same mechanism. The only adjustment is at the cable.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                A thought, the little arm, where the cable connects at bottom, should be adjusted where you get the most movement from a complete pull of the lever. Easy to get it out of wack when reinstalling the clutch cover.
                1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                  #9
                  Had the same issue with my GSX 1100, and it was clutch plates (as suggested by Nessism). I knew it wasn't a cable problem so tipped the bike over to the left against a tree to keep the oil in the clutch case, removed the clutch cover. This was a road side fix so couldn't drop the oil. Removed the clutch plate stack (remember the steel and friction plate stacking order) shuffled the steel plates around into different positions but keeping them in the correct stack order. Clutch cover back on, bike back on its side stand. Could now engage neutral and change gears smoothly every time. One day will replace the plates but for now, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
                  Last edited by Shin-Ken 1074; 02-23-2024, 07:33 AM.
                  Shin-Ken 1074
                  1982 GSX1100SXZ Wire Wheel Katana - BOM Nov 2011
                  1981 GSX1135 Katana Build completed Mar 2024, Curb Weight, all fluids and 21 lt fuel = 206 kg.

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