slippy flywheel rotor, 81 1100

[Don R]

After being warned to check the crankshaft taper and rotor. I finally got the correct flywheel puller tool and did just that. Both surfaces were slightly galled indicating that it had been slipping. I used emery cloth on the crank taper and modified a sanding drum to match the rotors internal taper. I removed the high spots and re-assembled with a dash of red loctite on the taper and orange on the nut. A previous owner had apparently been in there before me, the 3 allen bolts were already loctited in and I could see wear in the sockets from the allen wrench.
Aside from new parts are there better fixes? After learning a few GS things I would probably buy an 83 1100 or an 1150 if I was to do this again.

[bitzz]

https://www.google.ca/search?q=how+to+lap+a+taper&newwindow=1&source=hp&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZnwzs5N-pvsMSSMmhj1aFRMS1jeuSa5-&uact=5&oq=how+to+lap+a+taper

A machinist would use valve grinding compound and a lot of twisting

[Don R]

That's pretty much what I did except I failed to turn the same direction all of the time.

[rphillips]

Having few $$$ to work with back then, I tried cleaning mine up with a file, emery cloth, and lock tight. I'd tried to get it to hold twice & it didn't work, decided only way to fix it right was send crank off to get new end put on and a new rotor, more money than I had. One of those "What have you got to lose" ideas, I cleaned things up as best as I could, installed it again with lock tight, tightened nut till I felt the threads were about give, then welded the nut to the rotor & to the end of the crank, scary but had no other choice. Don't remember # of yrs. nor miles it lasted, but a lot with no more problems.

[Don R]

Like you said, sometimes it becomes a choice of what have I got to lose?