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    Clutch replacement - drive plates only?

    So the clutch in my 82 750t has begun slipping a bit, only at high rpms under full throttle. As well as dragging quite a bit when cold to the point where the bike will stall if I try to put it in gear without letting it idle for at least 5-10 minutes, depending on how cold it is outside.

    I pulled it apart and mic'd the friction plates, they are all within spec. The metal drive plates however are all out of spec when checked for straightness with a feeler gauge and plate glass. So my question is, should I just replace the metal drive plates? Or should I just replace the whole kit and caboodle, friction plates, drive plates, springs, etc? Is there any consensus on what the best clutch kit to buy is? I'm having trouble finding the correct oem kit. If anyone has the part number for the oem or another good brand I'd be very grateful

    #2
    There are lots of opinions on this subject. Many say, use OEM parts where possible. I'm in that camp. OEM clutch springs for sure. For the steel plates, options are limited. Friction plates are more readily available aftermarket, but you need to hit ebay or similar if wanting NOS friction plates. My opinion is to stay OEM, or quality aftermarket, like EBC.



    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      As well as replacing the clutch, drop the sump plate for a look at the oil pick-up. When the clutch has been slipping it's also been shedding fibres that block up the mesh on the pick-up.

      Dave
      '79 GS850GN '80 GS850GT
      Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

      Comment


        #4
        First off, be sure not to use newer more modern oil with friction inhibitors, nor slick additives, these old GS clutches don't like that. No doubt if you can use OEM, you won't need to wonder about the quality of an after market. I've usually just replace what is out of spec or visually something amiss, My opinion and my opinion only, if I get a new fiber plate to replace a perfectly good fiber plate, you got the same thing only newer. For me, if clutch is slipping, springs for sure, if they're not sagging a little after 43 yrs. they should be. "I" wouldn't recommend HD springs.
        1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by rphillips View Post
          First off, be sure not to use newer more modern oil with friction inhibitors, nor slick additives, these old GS clutches don't like that. No doubt if you can use OEM, you won't need to wonder about the quality of an after market. I've usually just replace what is out of spec or visually something amiss, My opinion and my opinion only, if I get a new fiber plate to replace a perfectly good fiber plate, you got the same thing only newer. For me, if clutch is slipping, springs for sure, if they're not sagging a little after 43 yrs. they should be. "I" wouldn't recommend HD springs.
          I'm current using the valvoline blue bottle stuff is that not a good choice?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Grimly View Post
            As well as replacing the clutch, drop the sump plate for a look at the oil pick-up. When the clutch has been slipping it's also been shedding fibres that block up the mesh on the pick-up.

            Well my friction plates are within spec and actually at the high end, but the metal plates are slightly warped so I'm assuming that's what's causing the slipping and there shouldn't be any shredded stuff in the pickup?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              There are lots of opinions on this subject. Many say, use OEM parts where possible. I'm in that camp. OEM clutch springs for sure. For the steel plates, options are limited. Friction plates are more readily available aftermarket, but you need to hit ebay or similar if wanting NOS friction plates. My opinion is to stay OEM, or quality aftermarket, like EBC.



              https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a...8b4e33d/clutch
              Yeah I'm finding a lot of the friction plates but no oem metal plates so I was hoping there'd be a consensus on a good aftermarket metal plate...

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by longranger44 View Post

                Well my friction plates are within spec and actually at the high end, but the metal plates are slightly warped so I'm assuming that's what's causing the slipping and there shouldn't be any shredded stuff in the pickup?
                It's 40 years old. Your choice, do you feel lucky?
                Dave
                '79 GS850GN '80 GS850GT
                Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                Comment


                  #9
                  I would do fibers as well as steelies. They have some age on them. It the steelies got hot enough to warp then the fiber's aren't likely very happy either. Throw the old fibers in box and horde them if you get in a pinch down the road.

                  No idea what's in Valvoline blue bottle, but look for a label on the bottle that sez energy conserving. It it has that label it's the wrong oil and friction modifiers were added.
                  78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
                  82 Kat 1000
                  10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike​
                  Some dirt bikes

                  Comment


                    #10
                    There is always a lot of banter about auto oils causing wet clutch slipping in motorcycles, but the oils that have friction modifiers, labeled Energy Conserving, are only the low viscosity oils. 40 or 50 weight oils are not affected.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      There is always a lot of banter about auto oils causing wet clutch slipping in motorcycles, but the oils that have friction modifiers, labeled Energy Conserving, are only the low viscosity oils. 40 or 50 weight oils are not affected.
                      Here is what I used
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                      This gallery has 1 photos.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by first timer View Post
                        I would do fibers as well as steelies. They have some age on them. It the steelies got hot enough to warp then the fiber's aren't likely very happy either. Throw the old fibers in box and horde them if you get in a pinch down the road.

                        No idea what's in Valvoline blue bottle, but look for a label on the bottle that sez energy conserving. It it has that label it's the wrong oil and friction modifiers were added.
                        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                        This gallery has 1 photos.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Grimly View Post

                          It's 40 years old. Your choice, do you feel lucky?
                          Doesn't hurt to check it I guess, hopefully I can find the right gasket

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by longranger44 View Post

                            Here is what I used
                            It says OK for wet clutches, so that's the key. Get a good deal on it?
                            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Rob S. View Post

                              It says OK for wet clutches, so that's the key. Get a good deal on it?
                              No paid full price, I first tried Rotella but the clutch wouldn't disengage at all even when warm so switched to this stuff because I had people saying to use motorcycle specific oil lol. I saved the Rotella so after I do the new clutch I could try that again if the people here think the valvoline isn't good for this old of a bike.

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