Newbie has a few questions

[BassCliff]

Even tho it calls for 10W-40? The thicker oil doesn't affect it?

Hi,

Not to start another oil thread, but use a diesel engine oil, 15w40. It's the closest to motorcycle "specialty" oil but doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Rotella is a favorite brand around here but I've also used Valvoline and Pennsoil diesel engine oils. They have more zinc and other additives that are good for our engines. Synthetics are OK too.

If you change your engine oil often enough (every 1000-1500 miles) it won't make too much difference which oil you use.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuck c]

THAT'S handy... I think I still have a big ol' jug of exactly that oil from when I had a diesel Jetta! I wondered what I was going to do with it!

[chuck c]

I just got an idea... since I am timid about rebuilding my carbs and possibly rendering my machine inert for a long period, I could buy 2 from my local salvage yard and mess THEM up. Then if I put them on and they don't run, I just switch back to the originals. Even one would give me a chance to crack one open without being terrified, and it would give me some spare parts. I'll have to see what they cost.

[davidduarte]

do you know anyone who is more mechanically savvy with motorcycles? I was a bit leary of tearing down the carbs too, but after watching my friend do it, it's actually pretty easy. Getting the carbs off the bike is fairly easy too. Just remove the tank (after you drain it, natch), unscrew the airbox screws, undo the clamps that hold the carbs into the airbox and intake boots, loosen the throttle cable nut, then push the airbox back and pull the carbs out. I found it easier to disconnect the throttle cable from the carbs after I removed them from the bike. You should replace the intake and airbox boots, and replace the intake boot screws with allen head cap screws. You can get stainless screws and the appropriate O-rings for your carbs from one of the links in your Megawelcome.

[teddux]

I just got an idea... since I am timid about rebuilding my carbs and possibly rendering my machine inert for a long period, I could buy 2 from my local salvage yard and mess THEM up. Then if I put them on and they don't run, I just switch back to the originals. Even one would give me a chance to crack one open without being terrified, and it would give me some spare parts. I'll have to see what they cost.

Just DO IT!
-NiKe

[dcil]

I was scared my first time too. (I know I just opened the door for a comment.lol) Just take your time. There not very complicated, just some of the old soft screws are a pain to get out. Use a really good screw driver! A cheap screw driver will screw you more than the screws. I usually do 1 carb at a time so I've got the others to look at if i have extra parts. Dip them in Berryman b12 carb dip. best $20 you'll ever spend.

[chuck c]

I'm sure I can do it, but right now I want to ride it. I'll wait until the season is over. Besides, I will want to do all those part replacements you recommend and as I'm unemployed the extra expense should be avoided. Buying the bike was enough unnecessary expense, but I justified that by gas savings over my 12 MPG SUV! I really like the idea of buying a salvaged carb and giving it an autopsy so I can see all the tiny parts before I go into mine.

[detorn]

Chuck,

Ask local members for help. If you really want to save money, buying new orings and rebuilding would probably be cheaper than buying a second set of carbs (though they may be good to have around in the long run.

So over time, get the orings, get the dip, I would recommend one of those screw drivers you hit with a hammer (i forget what they are called) they are awesome for not stripping things. I could even loan you mine.

If you wait till all the pieces are in place the actual down time for the bike will only be a day or two.

When you do do the rebuild you may be able to find a local from the board that will help you... a GS user helped with mine.

If you're worried about cost take a look at my thread, it can get away from you pretty quick.

[detorn]

also unlike cliff I really am not an expert. Just offering some advice from having just been through a lot of individual problems.

[davidduarte]

snip
...I would recommend one of those screw drivers you hit with a hammer (i forget what they are called) they are awesome for not stripping things. I could even loan you mine.

I believe you are referring to an impact driver or impact screwdriver.

[BassCliff]

also unlike cliff I really am not an expert. Just offering some advice from having just been through a lot of individual problems.

Pffft! You talkin' 'bout me?

Really, I may have learned a few things but I'm no expert. I'm just happy to help when/if I can. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuck c]

You're local to me. So is kerrfunk, who led me here. When I get ready to do it, you'll hear from me.

Right now I'm going to practice carb work on my stepdaughter's 1980 Kawa 250 LTD which ran fine last year after I unstuck the vacuum piston. Now it's running the same way (no power past 35 mph) even though the piston is moving free and the diaphragm is good. It must have a blocked passage preventing the piston from getting the right vacuum or atmosphere. From what I can tell it's carb is almost identical to mine.

Chuck,
Ask local members for help.

[chuck c]

It seems to run at normal temp, pipes are nice blue. I'll check the boots and box for leaks.