Possible material in valve seat, how to remove

[Nessism]

OK I have been following this thread and thought it time to go back to the beginning.Something didn't jive, the picture I have in mind now is that the head is sitting flat a bench with a towel while you rotate the cams to check clearances.How did you rotate the cams? You rotated the cams with the weight of the head and pressure applied from your working is a better visual image coming into view? Those valves would have extended far below the head gasket surface. The head was off to rebuild a running motor that you chose to take apart.

I believe you have bent some valves (possibly most of them)...do you have any way to check run out on them? A quick couple of ways is to rotate them in the guide even a small bend should be noticeable.

Good point on the possible bent valves. You need to support the head above the bench top to give room for the valves before you attempt to turn the cams. And if you use vice grips or similar to grab the cams, you can get chard's of metal flaking off (not good).

[gs road racer]

On rereading my post I apologize if i sound harsh not my intention...only to help understand what you did and find a solution...Hope it's been of some help....if not the miracle cure is available in a mexican bottle!!

[2BRacing]

Maybe some of the valve lapping compound got into the guide, causing the valve to be sticky?

[koolaid_kid]

No apology required, I saw no harshness neither explicit nor implicit. I race cars and prefer to be open when critiquing fellow racers' procedures. Saves a lot of legwork.
I placed the head on the bench, with and without towels. Installed the cams. Rotated the camshaft using the toothed sprockets, using a very long flat blade screwdriver. The valves themselves supported the weight of the head from time to time. If this bends a valve, well, oops.
But the behavior of the valve stem reminds me of a bent valve, not a rusted or contaminated valve stem. Live and learn.
I'll have to take it to a shop and have them dissassemble it and see what the damage may be. I hate to lose this head, because it came with the bike and it has already been milled. But valves may be expensive also, I'll have to check around. Drat, it was almost ready to go, too. Mumble, mumble, gripe, gripe.
Oh, Mexico, it's Jimmy Buffet time....

[koolaid_kid]

FWIW, the engine was disassembled because a "friend" dropped a bolt down in the engine, then the magnet he was chasing the bolt with. I decided it was time to install the big bore kit at that time and mill the head. Not the order I would have chosen, but life deals a strange set of cards from time to time.

[Nessism]

You can remove the valve keepers by placing the head down on the bench with a rag stuffed into the combustion chamber, and then take a socket and rubber hammer and bang on the top spring retainer - the split locks will pop out and the valve can be removed. Squaredance Lynn posted this technique years ago and I've used it with good results several times.

[koolaid_kid]

I am in possession of bwringer's valve spring compressor tool. I've already had valve 8 out and back in using it. I decided to concentrate on that one valve until I figure out what happened and what to do about it.
I guess it is time to find another head with some useable valves in it. I know someone, but he is the same fellow who dropped the bolt into the engine and I have not spoken to him in a while.

[Nessism]

Why not go to kzrider.com and post a wanted to buy thread? I bet there are guys there just like here, that have tons of extra parts laying around. No need to buy an entire head just to get a couple of valves.

[koolaid_kid]

The person I know is a mod on kzrider. I have sent him a PM and an email. He has a shed crammed full of KZ parts of all vintages.
It is in work, just gotta wait for those electrons to march around all the proper wires.

[koolaid_kid]

I'm supposed to be picking up some valves Wednesday. There is a motorcycle machine shop that slotted my cam sprockets, I intend to call them to see if they can work on the head. What is normally done to a motorcycle head? When I mentioned having a valve job done, a fellow GSer gave me a blank look. On a car, I would ask for a valve job, which would involve machining the valves and matching them to the valve seat in the head. Is this true for a motorcycle head also? This is a street machine, so I don't see the need for a multi-angle valve job, plus I don't want to spend a ton of money on this.
Thanks.

[gs road racer]

I doubt you did any other damage lap the new valves in after insuring there is no other damage. If the seats were fine before nothing has changed except the valves bent. If they lap in fine nice clean line on the seat and valve face to Spec you're good to go.If not then yes a "valve job" cut the seats and lap in valve faces.....lessons learned DO NOT DRINK TEQUILA ON AN EMPTY STOMACH........

[koolaid_kid]

Si` senor. That would make things a lot easier/quicker/cheaper. I had lapped the current ones, so doing two more won't be a difficult task. I'll pull the ones that are sticking, verify no others are sticking, lap the new ones, and procede forward. And get a couple of two by fours from the barn to support the head when I go to adjust the valves next time. Lesson learned.

And I usually prefer Jose Gold, myself.