Leaky oil pan gasket, what should I do?

[Taliesin]

This is what I've done:
I had a stripped oil drain plug. I had a spare oil pan. I decided to replace it at my next oil change.

The bike did not leak (at the oil pan) before the replacement.

Now, at the rear of the oil pan, I've got seepage around the gasket. I used a new gasket when I did the replacement. The rim of the sump area was clean, and didn't seem gouged or anything. The rim of the new oil pan was quite clean, and also didn't seem gouged.

I have tightened up the pan bolts some more, and it doesn't seem to have fixed the problem. I'm not keen on tightening them any more, as I don't want to have to helicoil something. I started at 8ft. lbs. torque, and don't know what it's at now in the rear bolts.

Finally, I'm using partial synthetic oil on the recommendation of the shop. Was this a mistake? Should I go back to standard and see if it seeps less?

If the oil is fine, what do you all think I should do? Silicone?

I don't mind doing my own work, but I'm getting frustrated that every time I do anything on this bike, there's something else that goes wrong so the bike is down for weeks. I just want to ride again.

[Nessism]

I'd pull the sump cover back off and get a fresh gasket (OE type, not aftermarket). Make sure you get 100% of the old gasket off and then have another go. You can put a skim coat of sealer on the gasket if you want some extra assurance - three bond sealer, or a really thin layer of some of that Ultra silicone stuff.

Oh, and the leak has nothing to do with the oil. Synthetic oil does not dissolve gaskets contrary to urban legend.

[Taliesin]

Thanks, Nessism. Just to clarify, OE is Original Equipment? (Like what BikeBandit mostly sells using their fiche?) As opposed to the gasket I used from the gasket pack I bought from Z1?

Also, thanx for clarification on the oil. It's what I figured, as I'd been reading on synth and partial synth before I put it in there. Just wanted to throw it out there for completeness' sake.

[Steve]

Thanks, Nessism. Just to clarify, OE is Original Equipment? (Like what BikeBandit mostly sells using their fiche?)

Yes, OE is Original Equipment.

Please be aware that, while they are a decent supplier, Bike Bandit also tends to be the second most expensive of the online parts suppliers.

.

[Taliesin]

I have indeed noticed that. Even with the 10% discount for AMA membership...

I had planned on taking a look at the vendors on BikeCliff's site.

Will an OE gasket say something like that in the description?

[Taliesin]

Ended up ordering through PartShark. Cheaper than BB.

Thank you all for your help. I probably will use a thin layer of Ultra sealant because I'm getting really paranoid about this. I want to RIDE again. Rolling down all the windows in the car is NOT cutting it.

Nessism, the Ultra sealant is the black stuff I've seen you talk about in other posts, correct?

And thank you again. I'll let you all know how it goes when I get the chance to work on it again after the parts come in.

[Nessism]

I think it's made by Permatex, Ultra Silicone or something to this effect. The Three Bond sealers are my favorite but they are hard to find so that Ultra stuff is fine. Remember, only a super thin layer, if it squeezes out on the outside of the engine you used too much. And 8 ft-lbs is about all the torque the case threads can handle so go easy and don't exceed that level.

[Taliesin]

Good to know. I know I didn't go much past that trying to stop the leak, because I'm so paranoid about stripping things. Seems like every time I do anything on the bike, I'm discovering poorly-repaired threads or else being an idiot and stripping them, myself.

I'll have a look for the three-bond stuff around here while I'm waiting for those gaskets to come in, but if I don't see any, the Ultra stuff it is.

When I put everything back on, we'll see if I didn't strip the case threads trying to get rid of the leak. Always an adventure.

Thanx.

[1_v8_merc]

Yeah, use permatex RTV or whichever you think would work best.
I use this black stuff for oil sealing, high temp.
(goto Autozone or AdvanceAutoParts if you are in a hurry, you might pay a dollar or 2 more, but they have a good selection usually.)

I actually bought the Wrong gasket for my Valve cover, but I rigged it to work with a little custom trimming.... then ran a nice seal of RTV on the cracks, Just to make sure she didn't leak!

Everybody was telling me it was going to leak........NOPE!


so if it's possible and you REALLY want to stop the leak, just get the surface of the leaky area nice and dry, then just run some RTV along the side of the mating surface areas of where it was leaking.

Sometimes it looks a little ghetto with black gunk along the sides of the mating surface, but it WORKS!
(besides noone is going to look under your bike anyways i hope.)


A lot of people think RTV and sealants are kind of like a Temporary fix.....but I'd say otherwise.
Most sealants these days will outlast your average factory gaskets, it has for me at least.
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[twr1776]

I would use some Hylomar. I had never used it until a couple weeks ago but it seals very well, takes high temps and does not leave the mess behind of some of the other gasket sealers. Another plus is that it can be cleaned off without scraping if you ever have to get back in there.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Hylomar_Universal_Blue_Racing_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm

[tejasmud]

Hey Taliesin,

I just finished doing the oil pan on my bike today. Theads pulled on the drain screw as well. Auto zone carried a "Sparkplug Thread Repair Kit" M14 x 1.5 which worked really well, steel thread insert, taps included, not a helicoil type. $30, but now I have the tools, and inserts are $10 from here on out.

Anyways, on the oil pan I made sure all the surfaces were clean, replaced the o-ring and pan gasket, a skim coat of Ultra silicone (black stuff) like Ed mentioned on the pan side to mate the gasket, and then a thin coat of oil on the case side to keep the gasket from sticking if It needs to be pulled back off anytime soon. The bolts were torqued to 7 ft lbs per my manual.

One thing no one has mentioned yet is evenly apply the torque. What I normally do when bolting up a gasketed surface is take all the bolts in with a nut driver until they are all at the point where they become flush. The bolts, cover, and gasket are all flush, and there is approx 10 inch lbs of torque I would guess on the bolts. Then in a criss-cross pattern I apply 2 ft lbs, and from there move up incremetally in torque until I reach the desired end torque. For the oil pan earlier it was 10 inch lbs, 2 ft lbs, 5 ft lbs, and finished with 7 ft lbs.

I have done this method for years on gasketed surfaces, and very very rare have one leak. One thing also is on composite gaskets more torque is usually not a good thing. Just making sure all the fasteners go down even is key, main thing this reduces any counter-lever issues, which usually damages the gasket.



Eric

[Taliesin]

Thank you MUCHLY for the tips. I'll definitely keep them in mind when re-doing my pan.