650g clutch question

[Charlie G]

The pervious owner gave me a box of parts with the bike he sold. Among the parts are 8 of the clutch plates in opened OEM packages. I've never seen clutch plates, let alone new ones. Do these look new or used?

I'm having a bit of a hard time shifting smoothly. Especially quickly. It seems as though the clutch isn't releasing completely and the gears are clicking into place. No where as smooth as my 450. Pretty sure I have the cable adjusted properly. Any ideas besides the given, operator error?

Thanks for the help!

Charlie G.

[Guest]

My vote is used. They look good though. Do you have a caliper? Measure them.

[koolaid_kid]

They look used to me.
Apparently the PO changed the fiber plates. It is possible that he failed to knock the glaze off the metal plates at that time, which could give you the notchy feel you describe. I suggest taking it apart and deglazing both the fiber and the metal plates and see if that helps.

[Charlie G]

They look used to me.
Apparently the PO changed the fiber plates. It is possible that he failed to knock the glaze off the metal plates at that time, which could give you the notchy feel you describe. I suggest taking it apart and deglazing both the fiber and the metal plates and see if that helps.

Not deaglazing a reused parts sounds like something I might do if I was replacing the clutch. They measure 3mm with my cheap plastic michrometer. If I replace the clutch, do you have any other recomendations for other parts I should replace or repair while I have it apart? The seal on the clutch shaft ( verticle shaft on the RH side of case, which the cable attaches to) is leaking slightly and wobbles. I don't have a good concept of how this type of clutch works. I 've done VW clutches many times. I guess I need to study diagrams and read a bit. Thanks for your response.

Charlie G.

[Big T]

Charlie,

You should know the PO rule by now

If you know the PO changed something, check it for yourself!

Your clutch disengages when you pull the lever, cable and arm. The arm rotates the pinion shaft, which pulls the pressure plate out, freeing the plates.

Remove the pressure plate and pull out the metal and fiber discs. Check the outer hub for chatter marks made by the discs, check the discs and reassmble correctly. You can replace that leaky seal while you're in there.

I'm concerned the "loose" remark. Be sure and check that. And the big nut on the clutch basket.

[Charlie G]

Big T,

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll just have to take this clutch work on. It's all part of the GS experence I wanted. Have you ever removed the pinion shaft bearing? Is it easy to remove?

cg

[Big T]

CG

Never worked on the pinion shaft, so I can't say

Tip: Manuver your bike near the garage wall and lean it up against the wall in gear, so it's tipped over 20 degrees or so. Then you don't have to drain the oil, but stuff something into every hole so washers and etc don't fall into the crankcase.

[Guest]

The bearings are pressed in so you need some type of puller. I'd make one. Threaded or something that goes through the bearing and grabs.

Use heat or some type of canned cold. Heat surrounding the bearing or cold on the bearing.