GS1000 mystery noise...transmission bearing? WITH VIDEO

[tkent02]

That'll get the bolt out and the rotor off. I'd get a proper puller. Are there threads on the inside of those rotors?

No, that is the proper puller.
A bolt, of the same thread and diameter as the swingarm pivot.

[80GS1000]

No, that is the proper puller.
A bolt, of the same thread and diameter as the swingarm pivot.

Which is what metric size? I'll go pick up a bolt.

[gs road racer]

Found a likely culprit.

I have a new starter clutch in my parts stash. Should I take the bike to a shop to have them pop the generator rotor off? Aside from that, how difficult of a job is it to do this repair?

Very easy repair be sure to blue loctite the screws holding the assmbly onto the rotor..hardest part is getting the bolt and rotor off. Do you have the puller?Borrow one? Best use and impact on the bolt but NOT the puller use hand tools on the puller.The little springs and dog rollers can be fun use a feeler gauge to hold them back to get the rollers into place.Oh and remember find the metals bits might be good to drop the pan if those get thrown around inside there you'll be looking at a major repair bill.... if there are pieces all over might be an idea to inspect it all and regasket the motor...one of my motors broke those three screws and ruined a head from all the crap that passed through

[Nessism]

High compression big bore engines reek havoc on starter clutches. An ignition delay added to the starter circuit helps from what I've read - get engine spinning before turning on the spark. Not sure if this is the reason for the damaged starter clutch but food for thought.

[salty_monk]

The big twins such as the Intruder I had for a few weeks have a valve that lets compression out on the exhaust side until the bike has built up momentum.. not practical for a GS but a different solution to the same problem

[blowerbike]

running a big GS up in the rev's or down shifting at hi rev's will blow your starter clutch a part.
the rollers kick out and engage with this type of abuse.
i have had more customers break there stock engine starter clutches like this than anything else.
go to a friday tune and test at your local track...slam the throttle closed when you go through the traps with the engine@9k...its not if it will break...its when.

[Mekanix]

Next question.... Where have the teeth gone?

Might want to pull the lower sump cover off and take a look.

According to the book the rear axle bolt and a dowel is the way to pull the

mag off.

[blowerbike]

Next question.... Where have the teeth gone?

Might want to pull the lower sump cover off and take a look.

According to the book the rear axle bolt and a dowel is the way to pull the

mag off.

as stated above...
you need to add a spacer between the puller/pusher bolt and the crank end as to not bugger the crank snout.

[80GS1000]

running a big GS up in the rev's or down shifting at hi rev's will blow your starter clutch a part.
the rollers kick out and engage with this type of abuse.
i have had more customers break there stock engine starter clutches like this than anything else.
go to a friday tune and test at your local track...slam the throttle closed when you go through the traps with the engine@9k...its not if it will break...its when.

Is there a heavy-duty starter clutch for these engines? Or a way to beef them up? I run this bike hard.

Next question.... Where have the teeth gone?

Might want to pull the lower sump cover off and take a look.

According to the book the rear axle bolt and a dowel is the way to pull the

mag off.

Can you pull off the oil pan with the motor still in the frame?

[Guest]

You can drop the pan with the engine in.
Don't know about the HD clutch. All they did with the 1100/1150s is but a larger taper on the crank for the rotor to grab onto. The 1150s added a dowel to lock the rotor with the clutch so if you shear the bolts you will still get home.

[Nessism]

The 1000G uses larger needle bearings supporting the clutch but that won't keep the teeth on the gear.

[blowerbike]

its centrifugal force and a bad/dated design i think.
don't close the throttle at high revs or don't**DOWN** shift like your and indy car driver or a GP racer.
if you choose to do so then.......
your shlt will fail sooner or later.

[Nessism]

On my recent 1000 purchase that had the 76mm piston kit installed, an ill fated attempt to start the engine resulted in a loud clack noise from the starter clutch. Scared me enough to stop trying. The PO had just replaced the starter clutch so I didn't want to push my luck. I didn't pull the clutch off the crank but maybe I should to inspect it? The gear turns super smooth so I "think" it's okay but what do you guys think? (sorry for the thread drift).

[c&c]

I have the exact same noise. Did you find out what it was?

[Guest]

Just got an 1100 E with a noise coming from the same area, from the countershaft area, but gets worse as the bike gets warmer. After it runs for 1/2 hr sounds like a can of marbles, although it is only there when the bike is moving , guessing countershaft bearing. Pulling cover and checking shaft there is no movement.