Clutch basket - what does it all mean Basil?

[legaleli]

The rivets go thru the aluminum basket, thru the gear, which has slots to allow the gear to move, then thru the back plate. We then weld the rivets which makes the basket and back plate as one piece with the gear between then able to move.

I'm wondering... while I have my basket out - should I get the rivets that are currently in there welded to the existing backing plate (for extra security)

... or is this a bad idea?

[legaleli]

Here we go...



The only think I don't like it that the guy who did this for me didn't spot weld the stainless washers to the springs... they can't come out of the housing because they are bigger than the opening... but not much bigger... and they can protrude a bit. I'll have to check clearances before putting it back together.

[posplayr]

Here we go...



The only think I don't like it that the guy who did this for me didn't spot weld the stainless washers to the springs... they can't come out of the housing because they are bigger than the opening... but not much bigger... and they can protrude a bit. I'll have to check clearances before putting it back together.

So let us know how hard you ride and how much that helps v.s. putting in a HD plate.

[legaleli]

So let us know how hard you ride and how much that helps v.s. putting in a HD plate.

I will absolutely.

I actually just brought the piece back to the shop... the shim washers he put in were so small as that they would slide out enough to "hang" further out than the drive gear. That got me thinking that if a washer hooked up on an internal part of the housing and got pulled out of the basket housing it would end up in the crankcase... not a place I'd want a stainless steel washer!

This could create a while new issue because they have to drill the old weld, use a new rivet, and weld it back... I can feel a replacement in my future... but the guys at the shop are pretty good... time will tell.

[gearhead13]

When I did my 750 hub, I bought an angle grinder and ground off the rivets on the backside, pried it apart, then shimmed the springs with washers and had it tig welded at a machine shop. I am not sure if the HD rebuild kit that APE sells will fit other bikes than the 1100/1150. You would at least have to drill out the aluminum basket for much bigger rivets.
Once you have the hub apart it will make it easier to understand how the thing works.

[FlyingSteve]

Yes, they are for dampening. They help to dissipate the shock of release

Oh god, how I love the shock of release!!

[FlyingSteve]

Here we go...
The only think I don't like it that the guy who did this for me didn't spot weld the stainless washers to the springs... they can't come out of the housing because they are bigger than the opening... but not much bigger... and they can protrude a bit. I'll have to check clearances before putting it back together.

Uh, the reason he didn't weld to the springs is because if you heat the spring up, like what would happen when you weld to it... It causes it to lose it's "springyness" Yes, I know I made up the word and I know that isn't the engineering/technical term for it but you get the point. You ever see a ricer with his car all lowered and it's bouncing all over the road? Well, that is probably because the dumb F used a torch to heat the springs and this caused them to lose the... (Uh, damn it too much to drink now and I can't remember the fricken word I want to use...) .. Um, it caused the part of the spring that was heated to lose it's "rebound".

Anyway, you get my point. What the welder did was the right thing to do because he knows his shat!

[Guest]

Tension?
......................

[legaleli]

Tension?
......................

Flyingsteve is right on the whole spring weld thing... my bad

My problem is, and I'm sure of this... if the springs loosened up again... which they would.. the washers would rattle like the springs did... the diameter of the washers this guy used was too small... the washers actually protrude so that you could lay the basket down on a flat surface with the washers pulled out as far as they can go and the washers would hang down further than the lip of the drive gear - the washers would become the legs of a "basket" table.

By way of example:

[FlyingSteve]

Buy new springs/aftermarket springs?

[legaleli]

It looks as if the shop has buggered up my clutch basket altogether...

I am going to be in the market for another... This time I'll buy my own welder and fix up the damn thing myself!

Just to confirm - if the Bike Bandit part number is the same in between years that means it's the same part right? I can then order from Ebay...

Oh well... at least I've got something to do!

[gearhead13]

Bike Bandit part numbers are unique to them, look up somewhere like alpha sports to get the correct suzuki number for cross referencing.

[Guest]

The Suzuki has a spacer, not a shim, at the end of only three of the springs. They have a step on them that fits inside of the spring so it won't come out. Don't put pain flat shims in there. When they come out they will find their way into the transmission.

Why don't you just have a clutch basket done by those that know how to do them. The one you have in the photo could still be used as a core.

[blowerbike]

The Suzuki has a spacer, not a shim, at the end of only three of the springs. They have a step on them that fits inside of the spring so it won't come out. Don't put pain flat shims in there. When they come out they will find their way into the transmission.

Why don't you just have a clutch basket done by those that know how to do them. The one you have in the photo could still be used as a core.

[legaleli]

This is exactly what I am going to do...