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Figured why gs750 not starting
				
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	 baz666 baz666
 If I move the cam chain back 1 tooth on the exhaust cam, won't that mean the chain also moves 1 tooth back on the intake cam? Right now the intake cam looks to be in the right position.
 
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 Not if you don't let it move on the intakeOriginally posted by baz666 View PostIf I move the cam chain back 1 tooth on the exhaust cam, won't that mean the chain also moves 1 tooth back on the intake cam? Right now the intake cam looks to be in the right position.
 
 Just see if there's enough slack in the camchain to move the chain one tooth. If not, pull the exhaust cam and rest as needed1978 GS 1000 (since new)
 1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
 1978 GS 1000 (parts)
 1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
 1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
 1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
 2007 DRz 400S
 1999 ATK 490ES
 1994 DR 350SES
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	 baz666 baz666
 Right, of course, that makes sense. I'm going to try and do it after work this evening and I'll let you know how it goes.
 thanks for all the help,
 baz
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	 baz666 baz666
 I realized that the front cam chain guide won't come out with the engine in place. It rise about 4 inches and then hits the front of the frame. It's too bad because with the tensioner removed I almost have enough chain slack to turn the exhaust cam forward 1 tooth. Close but no cigar, so I have to take off the exhaust cam itself a little bit, turn it one tooth forward and then bolt it back down. Do I need to use the molybendum disulphate paste mentioned in the service manual when putting the cam back in?
 thanks for everyone's help,
 baz
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 You can put some oil ( a few drops per lobe) or assembly lube if you don't have the grease
 
 The grease is there to lube the cams until the oil pressure comes up1978 GS 1000 (since new)
 1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
 1978 GS 1000 (parts)
 1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
 1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
 1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
 2007 DRz 400S
 1999 ATK 490ES
 1994 DR 350SES
 Comment
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	 baz666 baz666
 Okay, thanks. I'll let you know how it goes. First time I've done surgery like this so wish me luck!
 thanks again,
 baz
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	 baz666 baz666
 Geez, it's always something. It looks like somebody's already been at this engine. The cam cap bolts are pretty rounded off but I managed to get them loose. One of the two allen bolts holidng down the cross-over oil feed tube is badly chewed up and I can't get an allen key into it, no way no how.
 Does anyone have any idea on how to shift an allen key bolt otherwise?
 I don't think there's room to drill it or saw it off. Maybe I can drill off the bolt head or maybe drill it sideways.
 What a pain in the butt!
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 Can you cut a slot in it and get a screwdriver or bit on it?
 
 Welcome to the POS (previous owner syndrome)1978 GS 1000 (since new)
 1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
 1978 GS 1000 (parts)
 1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
 1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
 1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
 2007 DRz 400S
 1999 ATK 490ES
 1994 DR 350SES
 Comment
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	 haggisbasher haggisbasher
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 +1 on the torx
 
 Or really clap down in them with good v-grips.
 
 Sometimes if its not too wotn find a standard measure allen and wedge it in83 GS1100ES rebuild:
 
 http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170032
 
 Budget GSXR Conversion:
 
 http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=200563
 
 New to me bike: 2008 B-KING
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	 Suzuki mad Suzuki mad
 Having read all this thread about the GS(X)750 motor problem I am wondering what the click noise was. I'm wondering if the cam chain guide has broken!
 
 As for your timing lines the chain can be less than the service limit but not more so it seems that your chain has plenty of live left in it. A good sign. Secondly, go by the 20 pin rule than the position where the arrows line up on the exhaust cam shaft. As long as 1-4 on the points/ignition timing is correct and the intake arrow is correct 20 pins will be correct timing.
 
 Your butterfly's being closed only happens as you've disconnected them from the throttle stops on the twist grip. Off the bike they are normally closed. She might run fast to start with when you start her up again.
 
 A good piece of advice is sort out one problem first than doing lots of jobs and getting lost on the original problem. You still haven't found why the bikes compression has dropped so much over 5 months standing. That should be your priority to be riding again. She worked before you laid her up so the setting and such like were OK.
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