GS1000S Wes Cooley Fired up after 10 years

[Vmass]

I recently purchased the above. The previous owner had a craigslist mechanic out and supposedly clean the carbs, changed the oil, plugs, fuel etc.

He could not get the bike to run. So, I bought it.

I ordered carb rebuild kits snd a new petcock. Earlier today I pulled the tank and drained the gas, replaced the petcock and checked for spark.

I decided I would put the tank back on and see if the petcock was the reason it would not start. Well, I put the choke on and it fired right up.

Actually sounded allright for what I later found out was running on #3 and #4 only. At low idle, I heard a lound chain like noise!!

Gas was coming out of the carbs quite a bit, so I shut it down and pulled the tank. Tough to tell but it looks like the oil is a little foggy since running it, remember, it hasn't run in 10 years.

I am by no means a mechanic, I would like to know if I should proceed with a carb rebuild or check some other things 1st?

[JCSkokos]

are you sure the oil was changed? I would switch it out as a 'just to be sure' measure. Like you said, the carbs werent properly cleaned so God knows what actually happened to the bike before you took ownership.

[7981GS]

"foggy" oil means that it has water in it.
Change it out ASAP!

As for everything else that you need to know, hasn't Cliff sent you his welcome info yet?

Daniel

[SVSooke]

If you have not opened those rebuilt kits take them back.Get these instead http://www.cycleorings.com/ .Then follow the instructions on BassCliff's site.

[Vmass]

If you have not opened those rebuilt kits take them back.Get these instead http://www.cycleorings.com/ .Then follow the instructions on BassCliff's site.

I have the complete kits from Z-1. Is there a problem with those?

I intent on following the directions.

Any more tips for this old rookie mechanic?

[Guest]

I have the complete kits from Z-1. Is there a problem with those?

You dont need em. All you need are the orings from the link he provided.

[chuck hahn]

Drain that waterry oil, do a valve adjustment, clean and be sure the cam chain tensioner is working properly, check the timing, dip all the carbs and bits in berrymans at least 12 hrs, clean and flush every port in the carb bodies and holes in all the jets and emulsion tubes, once its fired up vaccuum sync them. As for the spark issue..check the points and the gaps of each. also may need a new condensor. This will be checked when you do the timing. and while the carbs are off, replace the intake boot orings.

[chuck hahn]

also, check the tank and see if its rusty..may need to address a cleaning and coating of the inside.

[SVSooke]

I have the complete kits from Z-1. Is there a problem with those?

I intent on following the directions.

Any more tips for this old rookie mechanic?

Those "complete " kits do not have all the o rings you need.The new jet are of poor quality from what I have read here.Never got one of these kits.I know the o ring kit works from personal experience.As does a through carb clean.

[koolaid_kid]

I would also replace the float bowl gaskets at that time. The original ones are most likely too brittle to reuse.
You should also check the carb boots (and o-rings if it has them). If they are soft and supple you are fine. If not, go ahead and replace those whilst you have the carbs off. New boots also makes it easier to remove and install the carbs.

[Vmass]

I'm getting conflicting suggestions between this post and another. I purchased the Z1 kits that someone here suggested. Made sense to me that the jets and needles should be replaced after sitting for 10 years.
And since they have to come out anyway, why not save the cleanining time, put new ones in and be done with it.

Keep in mind this is my first go at this type of stuff, I know most of you are well beyond your first rebuild.

The loud noise I mentioned above was more of a concern, no one has responded to that yet, makes me think it may be due to the lack of running on 4 cyclinders and you all suspect that will resolve itself.

Anyway, I am going to enjoy this project. And again, I will take any tips you are willing to offer!

[Allie]

I'm getting conflicting suggestions between this post and another. I purchased the Z1 kits that someone here suggested. Made sense to me that the jets and needles should be replaced after sitting for 10 years.
And since they have to come out anyway, why not save the cleanining time, put new ones in and be done with it.

Keep in mind this is my first go at this type of stuff, I know most of you are well beyond your first rebuild.

The loud noise I mentioned above was more of a concern, no one has responded to that yet, makes me think it may be due to the lack of running on 4 cyclinders and you all suspect that will resolve itself.

Anyway, I am going to enjoy this project. And again, I will take any tips you are willing to offer!

The complete kits are made by K&L, and each kit has several parts you don't need and lacks a few that you do. I think it is due to the fact that they are meant to cover more than one application, and probably don't cover any of them perfectly. They are also very expensive at $90 or so per kit, but you already knew that. I did use K&L kits on a bike, and the carbs were okay afterwards, but it definitely did not have all the o-rings. I may have been lucky to be able to reuse the ones it didn't have.

The O-ring kits are carefully put together by a member, contain every single O-ring you need, plus contingency O-rings that aren't used on ever carb in a series but he throws them in anyway. I think they're for the float drains.

It is a really really good idea to replace every O-ring when you do carbs because they degrade with age, and the handling from the rebuild takes a toll too. The brass parts shouldn't degrade from sitting, unless there was something REALLY bad sitting in there with them. They will likely be really dirty, so will need a dunking (I use the Gunk carb dip, it works great, I've had the same can for many years). They are very delicate so handle with care. I'm not sure but it may be possible for them to be worn after one or two hundred thousand miles, but other than that they shouldn't need replacing. If you have a couple brass parts that look bad you can always get them individually from Z-1. Worst case if you're bike has zillions of miles on it and you really want to replace all the jets and stuff it would still be recommended to get the O-ring kits too.

I've used both complete the K&L kits and Robert's O-ring kits, personally I feel better about the O-ring kits. They are also super cheep, and you can get the nice Allen manifold bolt kit from him too while you're at it, all for less than you'd pay for one K&L kit.

[NoH2Oh]

I've used both complete the K&L kits and Robert's O-ring kits, personally I feel better about the O-ring kits. They are also super cheep, and you can get the nice Allen manifold bolt kit from him too while you're at it, all for less than you'd pay for one K&L kit.

+1 on both the o-ring and manifold bolt kit.

[Vmass]

The complete kits are made by K&L, and each kit has several parts you don't need and lacks a few that you do. I think it is due to the fact that they are meant to cover more than one application, and probably don't cover any of them perfectly. They are also very expensive at $90 or so per kit, but you already knew that. I did use K&L kits on a bike, and the carbs were okay afterwards, but it definitely did not have all the o-rings. I may have been lucky to be able to reuse the ones it didn't have.

The O-ring kits are carefully put together by a member, contain every single O-ring you need, plus contingency O-rings that aren't used on ever carb in a series but he throws them in anyway. I think they're for the float drains.

It is a really really good idea to replace every O-ring when you do carbs because they degrade with age, and the handling from the rebuild takes a toll too. The brass parts shouldn't degrade from sitting, unless there was something REALLY bad sitting in there with them. They will likely be really dirty, so will need a dunking (I use the Gunk carb dip, it works great, I've had the same can for many years). They are very delicate so handle with care. I'm not sure but it may be possible for them to be worn after one or two hundred thousand miles, but other than that they shouldn't need replacing. If you have a couple brass parts that look bad you can always get them individually from Z-1. Worst case if you're bike has zillions of miles on it and you really want to replace all the jets and stuff it would still be recommended to get the O-ring kits too.

I've used both complete the K&L kits and Robert's O-ring kits, personally I feel better about the O-ring kits. They are also super cheep, and you can get the nice Allen manifold bolt kit from him too while you're at it, all for less than you'd pay for one K&L kit.

Ordered.... I will use a combinationb of the two kits. If I find I don't need the rebuild kit, I will send it back. However, I see some gaskets, springs, etc. that look like they may come in handy.

Keep the good tips coming.. Thanks