Cam Timing --- GS1100EZ

[Flaming Chainsaws]

From the speed that it was turning over with the starter i dont think there is much compression there.
Were the cam sprockets on the cams when you got them? Because the sprockets can be mounted 180 deg out as well.

Huh? I thought that it was turning kinda slow lol. I can't do a compression check without the tools though.

When I got this engine, everything was together. I checked the sprockets and they are mounted correctly.

[Guest]

Take out the spark plugs and while turning over the motor put your finger over the spark plug holes. Air should pop your finger off the hole.
If the sprockets were off I don't think the notches in the cams would be facing each other.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Take out the spark plugs and while turning over the motor put your finger over the spark plug holes. Air should pop your finger off the hole.
If the sprockets were off I don't think the notches in the cams would be facing each other.

I will try that sparkplug/finger trick in a bit...

So, I think I want to try a 470 intake sprocket. Does anyone have one? Or would that not change anything?

[niclpnut]

I don't think that would matter. The 82 (some list it as 81) came with a 451 intake sprocket and 470 exhaust stock:

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I don't think that would matter. The 81 (some list it as 82) came with a 451 intake sprocket and 470 exhaust stock:

The pictures didn't show up but I believe you. Except my engine is a 1982 GS1100EZ, not a 1981 GS1100EX. Or are they the same engine?

[niclpnut]

The pictures didn't show up but I believe you. Except my engine is a 1982 GS1100EZ, not a 1981 GS1100EX. Or are they the same engine?

some parts sites have their model designations messed up and lump the 82/83 together.


From alpha sports:



1982 GS1100E,ES - CAM SHAFT - VALVE (MODEL Z)

**Qty Required Notes 112700-49810

12741-45111
SPROCKET, INTAKE (NT:30

Nic

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I went to Babbitt's Online and looked up the 1100EZ camshaft fiche.

Here's the part numbers.

Intake sprocket --- 12741-45111
Exhaust sprocket --- 12751-47002

[Flaming Chainsaws]

So if the sprockets aren't the problem then what? God damn this is frustrating .

I hope that I didn't waste 2 months working on this bike....

[Guest]

So if the sprockets aren't the problem then what? God damn this is frustrating .

I've just been through all of your threads... frustrating it is... you seem to have done all the right things:

... you haven't exactly cleaned the carbs but you're saying all the plugs are wet, right?
... and you're using the choke, right?
... and the float bowls are full of petrol, right?
... and you confirmed a good spark on all four plugs, righ?
... and the cams are now at 20pins apart and just a fraction off from notches facing each other exactly, right?
... the valves are in spec, right?
... the cranking speed is sufficient ...

... so one last thing would be the compression check...
... OR, really bad intake air leak inbetween carbs and the head

That's the two things I'd check next.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I've just been through all of your threads... frustrating it is... you seem to have done all the right things:

... you haven't exactly cleaned the carbs but you're saying all the plugs are wet, right?
... and you're using the choke, right?
... and the float bowls are full of petrol, right?
... and you confirmed a good spark on all four plugs, righ?
... and the cams are now at 20pins apart and just a fraction off from notches facing each other exactly, right?
... the valves are in spec, right?
... the cranking speed is sufficient ...

... so one last thing would be the compression check...
... OR, really bad intake air leak inbetween carbs and the head

That's the two things I'd check next.

I did not clean and rebuild the carbs but all 4 sparkplugs are wet with fuel.

Float bowls are full of fuel and floats are set correctly.

Good spark on all 4 sparkplugs. Got shocked a few times lol.

20 pins apart but the notches are still slightly off.

I just adjusted the valves today and they are now .005" clearance on all valves.

I don't have a compression tester but I did what chef said and my thumb got sucked down the sparkplugs hard! And then it blew back out.

So the last thing would be a very bad air leak?

[TeamDar]

Plug wires.... Coil 1 (left) is plugged into cylinders 1 and 4. Coil 2 (right) is plugged into cylinders 2 and 3. There's a guy on craigslist selling a brand new set of green 3 ohm Dyna DC1-1 coils with the wires and caps. Should I get that?

Make sure that the left coil is wired as the left coil. Both coils have the orange with a white stripe going to them. The left coil should also have a white wire going to it. The right coil should have a black with yellow stripe going to it. If you have a timing light, use it to see if the spark is happening at the right time for the correct cylinders. Dar

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Make sure that the left coil is wired as the left coil. Both coils have the orange with a white stripe going to them. The left coil should also have a white wire going to it. The right coil should have a black with yellow stripe going to it. If you have a timing light, use it to see if the spark is happening at the right time for the correct cylinders. Dar

Now that's a good suggestion. However, I just checked and they are correct .

[ptexotik]

God damn this is frustrating .

deep breath & just think of chickadee vibrating away on the back, when you eventually sort it out!

[Guest]

A bad air leak would be due to either carbs not sealing well into the rubber boots and/or rubber boots having cracks and/or o'rings between boots and the head failing (if that model does have those o'rings I'm not sure)

[Flaming Chainsaws]

deep breath & just think of chickadee vibrating away on the back, when you eventually sort it out!

Yes, that will make this all worth it.

A bad air leak would be due to either carbs not sealing well into the rubber boots and/or rubber boots having cracks and/or o'rings between boots and the head failing (if that model does have those o'rings I'm not sure)

This bike doesn't use the o-rings. It's just a rubber boot that clamps on at the head and on the carbs. The carbs are sealing very well but I'm not sure if the boots are cracked or not.

The boots are soft enough to be able to put the carbs back on with no hassles. Yesterday, I took the carbs off and put them back on like 5 times with no problems.