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Valve stem seals, without removing the cylinder head

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  • Buddy
    replied
    I've done it on an 8 valve head in frame. It aint easy. So hard infact I don't want to relive it here telling how. But I'll try.

    I used a piece of rope, a pvc pipe coupling with a window cut in it, a cam bearing block form a junk head, a hose clamp and a pry bar. Feed the rope into the cylinder and turn the engine to put presure on the valves. Put the clamp around the cam block and pry against it with the bar pressing down on the pvc.The hardest part is keeping the spring cap centered in the pvc coupling while you put in the retainers.

    Hope that helps,
    Buddy
    Last edited by Buddy; 02-26-2012, 11:06 PM.

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  • Suzuki_Don
    Guest replied
    It might just be possible to change the valve seals on the 16 valve head (as in Jim's pictures) as the springs stand proud of the head. But there is no way in the world that you can do this on an 8-valve head while the head is still in place on the motor in the frame. It is a battle to do it with the head on the bench let alone still being on the motor. The motor you are talking about uses the bucket system and these as well as the springs are recessed down inside the head.

    I hope you can prove me wrong, but I doubt it.

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  • azr
    replied
    Originally posted by john82q View Post
    Just watched steves video, still cant see why I cant do it with the head on.


    I will need to make "special tools"

    - the pvc pipe

    - the spring compresser yes this is tricky, frame in way an all, but it might well be a good leverage point.

    - a keeper installer, ive seen some that are like tweezers, only the tips are shaped to hold the keepers, used with grease. once on they hold keeper with spring tension till valve is released.
    This would be a great addition to the 'how to' tutorials if you get it to work. If we could change out the seals without having to spend the $$$ on base and head gaskets that would be great. Looking forward to your progress.

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  • posplayr
    replied
    on the floor

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  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    I am almost sure non of those compressors will work on a GS with the double springs down in the bucket bores, but good luck.

    I have personally used the first one to do a GS1100ED head. The only problem is with doing it on a bare head as you torque the head with the handle.

    Chef1366 helped me if you want to ask him.
    Last edited by posplayr; 02-26-2012, 07:21 PM.

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  • tkent02
    replied
    Originally posted by john82q View Post
    Just watched steves video, still cant see why I cant do it with the head on.


    I will need to make "special tools"

    - the pvc pipe

    - the spring compresser yes this is tricky, frame in way an all, but it might well be a good leverage point.

    - a keeper installer, ive seen some that are like tweezers, only the tips are shaped to hold the keepers, used with grease. once on they hold keeper with spring tension till valve is released.
    Well, I hope you can make it work.

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  • john82q
    Guest replied
    It will be fiddly, and may lead to cursing,

    Just watched steves video, still cant see why I cant do it with the head on.


    I will need to make "special tools"

    - the pvc pipe

    - the spring compresser yes this is tricky, frame in way an all, but it might well be a good leverage point.

    - a keeper installer, ive seen some that are like tweezers, only the tips are shaped to hold the keepers, used with grease. once on they hold keeper with spring tension till valve is released.

    Leave a comment:


  • hampshirehog
    replied
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    I am almost sure non of those compressors will work on a GS with the double springs down in the bucket bores, but good luck.
    You're right Tom - there's no room down in those bores. Getting those keepers back in is fiddly enough on the work bench with the head off and the proper compressor. I don't think this doable and have yet to see photos from somebody who claims to have done it

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  • tkent02
    replied
    I am almost sure non of those compressors will work on a GS with the double springs down in the bucket bores, but good luck.

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  • posplayr
    replied
    google results


    I have this one. It would work with the engine out of the frame. It would likely cause some lost keepers trying to do this with the engine in the frame.



    HF has this one




    Add-on to the first compressor




    a bunch on ebay

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  • mike_of_bbg
    Guest replied
    Indeed I have Steve. Used that technique myself with C clamps when I last put valve seals in. But that was with the head off...

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  • Steve
    replied
    Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
    ..., I could envision some scenarios with a PVC pipe and a window cut out which might allow access to the keepers. ...
    You have, of course, looked at BassCliff's site?

    Valve Replacement
    (by Mr. Steve)

    Starring yours truly.

    .

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  • mike_of_bbg
    Guest replied
    Oh, no need to apologize - great to have some ideas.

    This is something I've actually thought about before. It would be very cool to get it done.

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  • bccap
    replied
    Sorry about that Mike. I was quoting a poster on another site. He used that picture to show one of many different valve spring compressors available. I really don't know how its done. But from the little surfing I did, it seems that many people with motorcycle overhead cam engines do replace their valve seals without removing the heads.

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  • mike_of_bbg
    Guest replied
    It's not really keeping the valves up - rope could do that just fine. The problem is compressing the springs. In the pic you've shown bccap, there appears to be just one valve spring and it's fully exposed. Not sure about the 16V models, but my GS has two valve springs and they're down in the bucket bore. There's no way you're getting that valve compressor to work.

    Once you have the rope or compressed air in there to hold up the spring, I could envision some scenarios with a PVC pipe and a window cut out which might allow access to the keepers. Perhaps with a good leverage point with a long 2x2 and a helper against the frame spine, or maybe ratchet straps. Your approach would probably have to vary considerably between the cylinders.

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