Clicking when spin wheel

[glenwill]

I originally posted this under my introductory thread in another subforum, and realized it was probably the wrong place...

Ok, so one of the problems of being a complete motorcycle noob is that I don't know what is normal and what is not, when it comes to sounds from my bike. I have gotten the engine running great, and as far as I can tell it is riding nicely.

However, when I have the bike on the center stand and spin the rear wheel, I hear a clicking sound from the clutch/gear box area. Is this normal? Should there be a clicking sound?

Could someone listen to this video and tell me if this sounds like a typical sound it should make?

http://youtu.be/grTJgNI2U4g

The chain seems flexible, although it's got some rust. The bike has 16K miles, and I figure at some point I should probably replace the sprockets and chain.

Thanks in advance, Glen.

[Guest]

Junk the chain, buy a new one and sprockets. The chain is dead and probably has eaten up the sprockets as well.

[Guest]

That sound is not normal. Take of the sprocket cover and do it again and see what you can see. Sort of sounds like a bad chain or maybe sprocket but I'm just guessing. You sure the chain is not too loose, or kinked?

[Crankthat]

Have not watched the video but would agree probably chain-sprockets from description. Remove sprocket cover like azr said and take a listen and inspect from there. Careful with cover bolts use a impact driver if you have one and replace with non phillips from your local motercycle shop if you have a couple of extra bucks. They usualy have socket or hex bolts instock just bring what you took out to compare sizes. Don't over tighten while replacing as all that space between fastner head and threads of hole make for easy snap of bolts.
I have had this happen.

[glenwill]

Well, I am glad I asked!

Looking up the parts fiche, it seems that the stock sizes are 17 teeth on the front sprocket, and 51 teeth on the rear. Any reason to change that? I understand that some people change the sprocket sizes for performance reasons. I'm a new rider, and mostly want to get my bike in great condition.

Anything special I need to know to buy the chain? From the manual I think the stock chain is a size 50. I've seen references on this site to 520 or 530 chain, and I don't know what they are referring to.

How hard is changing the sprockets and chain? I know I'll need a chain tool.

Glen

[hampshirehog]

Unless you're a heavyweight with a heavyweight passenger i would keep the standard sprocket sizes.

Before you do change your C&S just remove the front sprocket cover - there could be something stuck in there making that noise.

It probably is your C&S though and it's an easy job. The only thing to remember is to remove the front sprocket first before doing anything else. You need a 32mm socket and a good length bar for the nut - it will be tight I bet. To hold the shaft from spinning stick the bike in gear and get somebody to put their foot on the back brake. Fold back the locking washer and undo the nut.

It's all in the manual.

[Big T]

All the above is good advice

The only reason you'd need a chain tool is for peen style master links, so buy a clip style link with your new chain. You can grind off the old one if needed

[glenwill]

Awesome, thanks all for the replies. I'll take the cover off and post what I see.

hampshirehog, I weigh about 265. I was 282 2 months ago. I hope to be much less than 260 by the end of the year!

Big T, thanks for the hint about clip links. That will make this much easier.

[hampshirehog]

Awesome, thanks all for the replies. I'll take the cover off and post what I see.

hampshirehog, I weigh about 265. I was 282 2 months ago. I hope to be much less than 260 by the end of the year!

Big T, thanks for the hint about clip links. That will make this much easier.

260 lbs - I'm in the UK so I have to work that out.... 18 and a half stone (I'm not fully metricated yet....). You're not a lightweight but you'll be fine with standard gearing.

The clip link suggestion by Big T might start a fight but I'm ok with them - just make sure you know how to install them properly

[glenwill]

Ok, I seem to have fixed one problem and caused another.

When I took the clutch cable cover off, I found it was filled with leaves and dirt. I cleaned them out, but when I turned the wheel, it still made the same noise. I loosened the back wheel enough to take off the chain, and found that the sprocket was loose! Fortunately the bent washer kept it in place. I flattened the washer, tightened the sprocket nut, and bent the washer back.

Put on the chain, roughly adjusted tension, and it seems to be a bit quieter.

I put the cover back on, and now I can't get the clutch to function at all.

No matter how much I screw out the adjuster rod going into the cover, the clutch does not work at all.

I took the cover off, and when I push in the clutch push rod, it has no give whatsoever. It seems to not be positioned properly. I tried using a small pry bar to manually push in the push rod, and it does not budget at all. I expected some spring action.

Help!! I think when I pulled the cover off, the clutch push rod pulled out due to sticking to grease on it. Did that cause a problem?

Glen

[glenwill]

To add some detail, the clutch cable is moving fine, and the clutch mechanism in the cover is working fine. When I have the cover off of the bike, it rotates and pushes out when you pull the clutch lever, and looks to be working correctly.

It's just that when I put the cover back on the bike and screw it in, the clutch feels very tight, and never dis-engages. I've tried adjusting it per the manual. When I get the adjuster all the way out (I.E. within 1-2 threads) it gives me a slight slip allowing me to turn the back wheel, but the clutch is hard to squeeze.

I can manually shift to neutral and spin the back wheel, manually shift to first, and it locks the wheel again. Pushing in the cluch does not disengage and allow the wheel to turn.

Glen

[chuck hahn]

Sounds like you may have an extra set of plates and fibers in there that are making the pack too thick and the clutch pressure plate is hitting the cover. I would see what the stock count is on them and recheck whats in there. And when your putting the cable linkage back on the splined shaft, are you rotating it all the way clockwise till it stops before putting the link on???

[glenwill]

I think I may have been unclear where my problem is. I have not disassembled that actual clutch or transmission.

On my model, there is a clutch cover plate that the clutch cable goes into. That plate has a mechanism that when you pull the clutch cable, a small plate rotates and moves in/out. This plate makes contact with a clutch push rod that slides into it. So when you take the cover off, the push rod is still in the clutch/transmission.



Can't tell if the image above is showing, so if not try this link:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103315809940201927482/albums/5791022884929635377

It's the rod sticking out on the left side of the above picture.

When I push in on it, it doesn't seem to have any spring or give, like it is hitting a solid surface. It seems to me like maybe in order to go in all the way, it has to pass through a hole that is not quite lined up. so it is sticking out to far.

[koolaid_kid]

Hang around for a few, it takes me a bit to write this up. I'll be right back.

[hampshirehog]

You won't be able to push that rod with your hand - it's pushing against the clutch springs (indirectly). Did you accidentally mess up the mechanism in the cover you pulled off? Take a look at that first.