Cam tensioner has loosened on it own after rebuild

[tc80211]

1981 GS750E

So after a while of riding and dealing with what i thought were just loud cams. Another member on here recommended I rebuild my cam tensioner... low and behold the gasket was rock solid and it was not engaged. after a rebuild I reinstalled and the bolt engaged, turn the bike on and its music to my ears... The "screw" on the opposite side of the locknut moves in when turned right and out when turned left... when i rebuilt the tensioner I think I may have installed that spring backwards so that it always pushes that screw out.... after taking it around the block for about 15 minutes the cam noise returned and i noticed alot less ability to move that screw in and out...

I thought I tightened down the locknut well... but thinking maybe not well enough? Its a real pain to get to having to remove carbs etc... anyone have any pointers? maybe a way to remove cam tensioner with carbs installed? or something else.

Thanks guys.

[tom203]

Better review this link (and others)- you may have messed up on reseting/reinstalling the tensioner correctly. Like my 650, the carbs on your bike probably have to come off ( or at least tilted) to do the job right.

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

[tc80211]

ah ha! I messed up on 2 things, I tightened the adjuster bolt down against the tensioner bolt and I installed the knurled spring and nut wrong... Thanks for the link!

[Steve]

Its a real pain to get to having to remove carbs etc...

You think it's a pain to remove the carbs?

Try ignoring your situation and seeing what a pain it is to do everything elses that results.

ah ha! I messed up on 2 things, I tightened the adjuster bolt down against the tensioner bolt and I installed the knurled spring and nut wrong.

That first one is a very common mistake, please don't think that you were the first one to do it. Before installing the tensioner, retract the plunger, lock it in place with the set screw. Install the tensioner, release the set screw. Turn the set screw back in until it stops, then back out about 1/4 turn, hold that position and lock it in place with the lock nut. Too many times, it is not backed out, which allows the plunger to move to do its job of tensioning the cam chain. If you turn the set screw out more more than half a turn, it will not be engaged in the slot in the side of the plunger, and will not keep it from going into the engine, if things go decidedly "south".

.

[BigD_83]

You think it's a pain to remove the carbs?

Try ignoring your situation and seeing what a pain it is to do everything elses that results.




That first one is a very common mistake, please don't think that you were the first one to do it. Before installing the tensioner, retract the plunger, lock it in place with the set screw. Install the tensioner, release the set screw. Turn the set screw back in until it stops, then back out about 1/4 turn, hold that position and lock it in place with the lock nut. Too many times, it is not backed out, which allows the plunger to move to do its job of tensioning the cam chain. If you turn the set screw out more more than half a turn, it will not be engaged in the slot in the side of the plunger, and will not keep it from going into the engine, if things go decidedly "south". .

Is this the main reason why people "upgrade" to a manual tensioner?

[tkent02]

Is this the main reason why people "upgrade" to a manual tensioner?

It's not an upgrade unless you are racing. The main reason is ignorance.

[BigD_83]

It's not an upgrade unless you are racing. The main reason is ignorance.

I didn't know, but sensed that might be the case.