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something has gone horribly wrong piston hitting valve
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by chuck hahn View Post
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yes... even the slightest bend and the valve will need replaced.
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Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostDepends...inspect each one the way the manual says to. Beat down edges and ridges beat into the lower side of the faces are for sure bad things to find. Chips, burnt spots, pitting, thats sort of stuff needs to be looked for on each valve as well as the seats.
Measure the springs per the service limits as well.
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There are no short cuts if youre gonna do a proper and thorough job.
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Depends...inspect each one the way the manual says to. Beat down edges and ridges beat into the lower side of the faces are for sure bad things to find. Chips, burnt spots, pitting, thats sort of stuff needs to be looked for on each valve as well as the seats.
Measure the springs per the service limits as well.
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Guest repliedWow those valves get pricey lol. Do I have to replace all 16?
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Originally posted by m.qualls89 View PostI'm a machinist by trade but without proper tools I would rather pay to have it done. As far as the base gasket I know it was replaced in 2002 but that does seem a little old now. And I wasplanning on stem seals.
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Send NESSISM ( Ed Ness) a PM and ask him for his referal as far as having the head reconditioned. You will of course need the new valves..and be prepared for the guy cutting them to inform you that there are other worn or otherwise damaged valves to be replaced.
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Guest repliedI'm a machinist by trade but without proper tools I would rather pay to have it done. As far as the base gasket I know it was replaced in 2002 but that does seem a little old now. And I wasplanning on stem seals.
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Originally posted by m.qualls89 View PostYes I should have found it instead of chalking it up to oh I droped it and must have kicked it. Looks like I now have bent valves on cylinders one and four. Any suggestions where to buy valves? I am thinking of having the head worked on but not sure how to tell if it needs it. As far as real gaskets it says in big red letters not to use if you have a tach drive in the valve cover. I found a NOS oem Suzuki on ebay for it. As far as head gasket I need to measure my cylinders and I'm probably gonna go with Wiseco. If you have a different opinion on that be my guest I'm all ears.
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Have you experience with cutting seats and lapping valves? If so and you know someone with a set of Neway cutters then just do them yourself.
There are many sources for aftermarket valves that are of excellent quality and will cost you less than OEM from the stealerships. Just do some homework and ask around for options like you doing.
Find the base Suzki prices and use that as comparison. May as well throw in all new stem seals too..done for the next 20 years or so.
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Guest repliedYes I should have found it instead of chalking it up to oh I droped it and must have kicked it. Looks like I now have bent valves on cylinders one and four. Any suggestions where to buy valves? I am thinking of having the head worked on but not sure how to tell if it needs it. As far as real gaskets it says in big red letters not to use if you have a tach drive in the valve cover. I found a NOS oem Suzuki on ebay for it. As far as head gasket I need to measure my cylinders and I'm probably gonna go with Wiseco. If you have a different opinion on that be my guest I'm all ears.
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Seeing that the rubber cam seals have a metal core, IF he had noticed it, a simple wand magnet would have fetched it out.
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Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostThis should be a lesson to everyone...soon as that cover comes off, stick some rags down along the chain tunnel on each side to prevent things from falling in.One of mine is never let a part go unaccounted for when going into an engine.
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Keeps gasket material as you clean the head out of the sump as well.
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