GS850 oil presure

[Brendan W]

OK so I wasn't imagining it and I think I've found the cause of my problem oil pressure light. The sleeve hub nut was loose just enough to let the primary driven gear disengage from the oil pump drive gear. There is a 020" shoulder worn off the outer edges of the oil pump gear drive dogs and a nice silver circle on the back of the primary gear. The damage looks insufficient to prevent the thing working when reassembled correctly. The problem appeared when the bike was stopped in neutral or with any gear selected with the clutch pulled in either upright or leaned right. It also happened on the overrun which now I'm happy was the loose clutch reacting to the drive reversal and disengaging from the oil pump gear.The oil light never came on with positive drive through the clutch. With the oil hot and first selected the light would come on at idle and then by dragging the clutch against the brakes and dropping say 200 rpm the light would go out.
The good news is that the oil pan was cleanish, the pump screen clean, no shiny metal bits and the oil pump looks good. I did find a penny washer and two small pieces of smallbore brass pipe
The bad news is that there are at least two different kinds of spring on the pressure plate and the gasket fitted blocks the gallery to the release pinion. Should I open the gasket to the gallery in the cover and have I got a GT or GX. Reason being the GX had a jet fitted to the cover I think but there is no sign of one in the cover. Frame No 129949 and I believed the GX started at 128084
PS There is an oil seal p/n 09285-10003 listed but there is no trace of one fitted to my clutch. Looks like it goes on the release rack - can I get this from local hardware ? Any one know sizes?

[eil]

Can't help with the majority of the questions, but regarding the springs: a common thing around here to is replace 3 of the OEM clutch springs with heavy-duty aftermarket ones. If you were happy with the feel of the clutch before you took it apart, and there was no slipping, and if the springs measure good per manual specs, then you can put them all back in just how they were.

[Brendan W]

[QUOTE=eil;1913272] a common thing around here to is replace 3 of the OEM clutch springs with heavy-duty aftermarket ones. /QUOTE]

Hi Charles, four hd springs fitted in this case. Anyway all back together with €1 worth of o-rings and circlips for the pump, punched a hole in the gasket for the oil supply. Clutch must have been running semi dry.
A tip , when fitting the primary it is not easy to tell if the oil pump drive gear is engaged so I walked it around the perimeter by turning the oil pump with my finger until I could feel the primary drop into position. I did this part on the side stand to get help from gravity and keep the oil I was using in the sump. With the back wheel on the ground, fifth gear and a touch of brake pedal was enough to get the torque on the nut.
No oil lamp issues now and shifting is much,much better and to think I chose this GS over the BMW's because of the slicker handling even with as it now turns out, a hub nut loose.

[850 Combat]

OIL LEVEL IS SUPOSED TO BE CHECKED ON THE CENTER STAND. iT APPEARS LESS FULL ON THE STAND THAN IT DOES ON ITS WHEELS.

SORRY FOR THE CAPS, I WASN'T LOOKING.

[Brendan W]

OIL LEVEL IS SUPOSED TO BE CHECKED ON THE CENTER STAND. iT APPEARS LESS FULL ON THE STAND THAN IT DOES ON ITS WHEELS.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. Obviously ( well maybe not so obvious) the oil was drained from the bike before going in after the clutch and pump. What I meant by ' keeping the oil I was using in the sump' is that I coat clutch parts liberally with fresh engine oil as I reassemble and rather than have it all run out on the floor , putting the bike on the side stand during rebuild helps keep the runoff in the sump until the cover is back on and I can start refilling.