GS 750 oil-pump gears GS 1000

[jknappsax]

I read in a post here that some think it advisable when running an oil cooler to change the oil bump gears in a GS 1000 to those from a GS 750 to get better pressure. I did a search and couldn't find anything, but in looking at the fiche for the two parts, the 750 used a 29-tooth gear and the 1000 a 33-tooth gear, so changing it should speed up the pump. Can anybody elaborate on this mod, if it is necessary, desirable, or whatever, and how you get to the pump to change the gear. Is it under the clutch cover? How much else is involved?

[sharpy]

I read in a post here that some think it advisable when running an oil cooler to change the oil bump gears in a GS 1000 to those from a GS 750 to get better pressure. I did a search and couldn't find anything, but in looking at the fiche for the two parts, the 750 used a 29-tooth gear and the 1000 a 33-tooth gear, so changing it should speed up the pump. Can anybody elaborate on this mod, if it is necessary, desirable, or whatever, and how you get to the pump to change the gear. Is it under the clutch cover? How much else is involved?

More desirable than anything. I have them on my 1000. piece of mind knowing ure flowing more oil tru rad per min. Gears are behind the clutch. If u have right tools its a easy 1 hr job. Main thing is undoing cluch nut.

[Nessism]

Factory Service Manual (FSM) Section-page 7-32 to 7-38 shows the gears and how to get to them.

My opinion is to use the gears if you install an oil cooler, because the extra plumbing will cause pumping losses and the gears will make up for that.

[jknappsax]

Can anybody point me to a tutorial on this swap? Do you just change the one gear, and leave the one driving it as it is? I'm guessing that you need to pull the clutch to do this; is there something I should examine in the clutch while I have it apart? My clutch feels great, but since I'm in there already... This might have to wait until this winter, so as not to lose too much riding time. We all know what an easy, one-hour job can turn into!

[rapidray]

You HAVE to use both gears. You have to remove the entire clutch, inner & outer hub assemblies to change the 2 gears. One gear is help on the oil pump with a snap ring & the other, that drives it, is behind the clutch hub on a bearing. If you have never done it, & have an air impact to remove the clutch hub nut, it is about a 2 hours or less job. I've done lots of them & it takes me about hour. Ray

[tbirdhd]

would you do this to a bike that dont have a cooler on it or only if you have a oil cooler ?

[jknappsax]

Ray, I appreciate the advice. No air impact; I do have a manual impact driver. Can it be done with that? If not, I've thought about getting a compressor, so maybe this is the incentive. I'll look at the shop manual this weekend to get a better idea. I only saw the large gear on the microfiche of the oil pump, but never got a look at the one that drives it, so I'll see if I can't figure it out from the other fiche pages.