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During my engine dissasembly I cracked the lower crankcase near the bottom of the clutch housing on the right side of the engine. I had it welded and thought my troubles were over. After reassembling the entire bike I noticed that when I replaced the clutch cover that the bottom bolt hole did not match up. I figured that with all the other bolts tightened and the gasket between them that I would be fine. Turns out I was wrong. There is a small hole (pin sized) at the top of the clutch cover hole where the bolt would normally be allowing oil to leak out of the hole. also, there doesn't seem to be enough pressure from the two adjacent bolts to keep the cover tightly against the crankcase so some oil leaks out along the bottom edge as well. I filled the clutch cover bolt hole with yamalube liquid gasket which seems to have fixed that, however I still get the leaking from the bottom edge. I thought about removing the cover and either using two gaskets or one gasket with additional liquid gasket in order to get a tighter seal. My concern is that even with this the oil pressure will blow out the liquid gasket. I know the best fix would be to dissassemble, weld up the crankcase to a point where I can drill a new hole for the bolt, however I am hoping that ther is another, easier, less expensive fix for my bone headed blunder. Any thoughts. Sorry for the lack of pictures, I'll try to get some next time I'm over at the garage. Essentially the crankcase hangs about 1/8 of an inch too low so the very top of the lowest clutch cover bolt hole has a pin sized hole peeking into the clutch housing.
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There is no oil pressure inside the clutch cover. If it is leaking you will probably end up having to replace that case, it's difficult to weld. Might be easier to find a used engine. Go with a 1000 engine, it's a way better engine anyway.
Life is too short to ride an L. -
disagree, 1st Gen 750 is one of the best engines made. It's got a great balance of power/weight, good cam setup too.
Besides, you're going to have trouble finding a 1st Gen 1000e motor thats not being sold for parts.
Just look for another 750 motor, they are pretty easy to find on ebay or CL.Comment
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The 1000 is smaller in every dimension, lighter, makes more torque and power and lasts longer.Originally posted by 1_v8_merc View Post
It just feels better in the 750 frame.
What's better about the 750?
It has a kick starter.
Life is too short to ride an L.Comment
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Here's a link to some pictures. It's a tough spot to photograph, but you can see the crankcase hanging below the cover. The bolt hole is plugged with yamalube. It doesn't leak when on the kick stand, but it does with the bike in the upright position. I just put a cup under it yesterday to get a more accurate measurement of how much oil is coming out. I was thinking of using something like crazy glue to go along the seam to give a more solid barrier than the yamalube. Just typing this makes me feel like a scumbag for trying to cob it up, but I can't stomach the idea of starting all over again with a new engine and want to try something else before going for a total swap.Comment
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I have had my share of oil leaks. Formagsasket, fipg(form in place gasket) from a Toyota dealership have helped in some of my problem area's. Trip and I used silicone to create a oil dam in place of a half moon cam plug. Try the shade tree fix and maybe you will get lucky... If not, then glue the sucker shut with JB weld until the clutch wears out...
Curtsigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang OnComment
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Is it possible to take the whole bike in and have the case re-welded and properly tapped?Comment
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I'm not a real welder, but I have heard it's nearly impossible to get a good strong weld on motorcycle cases because the oil soaks into the pores in the metal, along with all the metal particles, acids, combustion byproducts, clutch plate particles, and other impurities contined in the oil. The metal really can't be cleaned well enough.Originally posted by bikemtn View Post
Welders don't want to touch it, because if it fails the customers will be ****ed that they have to do a lot of work to replace the case. It takes a lot of prep work, and it's not likely to work anyway. There's just not much money to be made in a small weld like that, just a lot of risk.
There are a few professional welder on this forum to ask, there are also welding forums.
Life is too short to ride an L.Comment
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Kind of fits then. Maybe the weld didn't work so well.Originally posted by bikemtn View Post
Really you should ask an experienced welder for advice.
Life is too short to ride an L.Comment
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Just seal it off with some gasket sealer or RTV. Not ideal but will work and get you back on the road. It will be fine until the next time you have to pull it apart at which time you can buy a used case on ebay.1982 GS550M Rebuilt Winter '12 - 550 to 673cc engine conversion.
1989 Kawasaki ZX-7 Ninja
2016 Ducati Scrambler Full ThrottleComment
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If you decide to go the jb weld route, I suggest http://www.amazon.com/Hy-Poxy-H-455-.../dp/B001RLYQ88.
Should work a lot better than jb weld, which does not have an aluminum-based product.Comment
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Thanks for all the advice guys! I did have it previously welded and the weld seems to be pretty solid, the problem was that when I cracked the case it broke downwards and they simply welded the gap shut, and I never thought about banging the metal back to it's original spot. I'll try some of that aluminum cure putty stuff, and fix it for real the next time I take the bike apart.
For the curious types, the amount of oil that leaked over about two days was ~ 5 - 10 ml with the bike on the center stand.Comment
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