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removing the rotor/starter cluch assembly

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    removing the rotor/starter cluch assembly

    some dum ass most of put red loctet on mine cause i threaded in my tool all the way and riped off the threads of the rotor . now i have a 8" 2 jaw puller on it and it moved a 1/4 " but stopped and i did put a little heat to it . this is my gs1150 motor all apart crank on the bench need help

    #2
    get some pressure wound on the puller then give it a few solid whacks with a heavy hammer. add some more pressure, then whack it again. it will pop off soon enough
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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      #3
      Same thing happened to me, stripped all the threads. Mapp gas was recommended by posplayer, as it's hotter than propane, along with what agemax suggested. Would like to see how you attached the 8" puller to the rotor.
      GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

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        #4
        Originally posted by Carter Turk View Post
        Same thing happened to me, stripped all the threads. Mapp gas was recommended by posplayer, as it's hotter than propane, along with what agemax suggested. Would like to see how you attached the 8" puller to the rotor.
        8" puller didnt get it off . i tryed welding the striped puller to it but only welded 1/2" at 12.ock and 6ock it broke the weld im done tonight . monday im welding it with one full pass around it .rotor is junk anyway

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          #5
          I don't think it is the red loctite that is the issue. First time I did mine it was he'll including a stripped puller. I reinstalled with generous amounts of red loctite any yet it popped off easily the second time.

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            #6
            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
            I don't think it is the red loctite that is the issue. First time I did mine it was he'll including a stripped puller. I reinstalled with generous amounts of red loctite any yet it popped off easily the second time.
            He tapped the puller for a larger bolt and I've pulled a few big end crank rotors with it with no issue.
            Last edited by chef1366; 01-27-2014, 11:21 AM.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              He tapped the puller for a larger bolt and I've pulled a few big end crank rotors with it with no issue.
              this one

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                #8
                i didnt pull the threads of the bolt it was of the rotor and some of the puller . i welded it to the rotor today and as soon as i stopped welding i put the inn packed gun to it and came right off. crank is good but going to need a new rotor

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                  #9
                  Seems like this guy has cornered the market on big end crank rotors.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    Seems like this guy has cornered the market on big end crank rotors.
                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/J22C-84-85-G...892bec&vxp=mtr
                    thats nuts f that i Know i can find one for much less

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