1100e engine noise

[posplayr]

Hi again
Just to be clear....#12 in this view? There's a flat, locking, fold up , washer behind it?

I'll check the starter bolts as well. I have lots of tools and a morbid curiosity

Yes ......................

[rwnielsen]

Yes ......................

Thanks
I'll try to get it apart tomorrow. Today ran a little long.

[rwnielsen]

rotor

This question was bound to come up:
How do you get the rotor loose without the factory puller?.....*or*
Where can I get a factory puller?

I started on this side to check the starter gear bolts only because the bike was pointed this way and I could lean it on the bench. Clutch bolt is next after I back the bike into the garage.

I do have a lateral play in the starter gear. Nothing frightening but about .5mm

[rwnielsen]

SC bolts backed out and/or sheared also makes a knocking sound throughout the engine.
been there...ect...
pull stator cover and see if you can move the SC housing to and fro....even a little bit..
sounds goes away when you bring the RPM's up just a little...

That's where I'm at.
I'm going to check the local Pep Boys for a puller

[bonanzadave]

I missed a shift

When I did that a clutch fiber plate broke in half. Might as well check the clutch pack when you have the cover off to check the nut. On the other side....I didnt need a puller. The Crank nut spun loose and the SC was a free-wheelin. F'ed up the taper on the crank.

[rwnielsen]

When I did that a clutch fiber plate broke in half. Might as well check the clutch pack when you have the cover off to check the nut. On the other side....I didnt need a puller. The Crank nut spun loose and the SC was a free-wheelin. F'ed up the taper on the crank.

Mine was tight. Complete with some evil thread locker. Impact all the way off

[posplayr]

This question was bound to come up:
How do you get the rotor loose without the factory puller?.....*or*
Where can I get a factory puller?

I started on this side to check the starter gear bolts only because the bike was pointed this way and I could lean it on the bench. Clutch bolt is next after I back the bike into the garage.

I do have a lateral play in the starter gear. Nothing frightening but about .5mm

There is a reason that I said it is easier to check the clutch and it has nothing to do with how your bike is parked.

There are various rotor nut sagas if you care to use search.

I have never heard of anyone using the factory tool although they are probably ok. Aftermarket tools can work but often break. I modified my aftermarket tool and it now works well.

[blowerbike]

80-82 rotor's can and do spin off.
never everrrrrrr seen an 83 or any 1150 rotor spin off.
i have seen owners not impact the crank nut to fully seat the 83 and up's and have seen them spin but it was operator error.
apples and oranges guy's.
you need a small thread puller for your 83...factory or nothing as the motion pro stuff is junk for a big taper crank.
if you get this far..leave the complete assembly off and install the cover...bump start it and see if the sound is gone..that will tell the tale.

[posplayr]

80-82 rotor's can and do spin off.
never everrrrrrr seen an 83 or any 1150 rotor spin off.
i have seen owners not impact the crank nut to fully seat the 83 and up's and have seen them spin but it was operator error.
apples and oranges guy's.
you need a small thread puller for your 83...factory or nothing as the motion pro stuff is junk for a big taper crank.
if you get this far..leave the complete assembly off and install the cover...bump start it and see if the sound is gone..that will tell the tale.

how to fix the cheapo aftermarket pullers.

[Guest]

how to fix the cheapo aftermarket pullers.

I have one just like that now.
Bionic rotor puller!

[blowerbike]

how to fix the cheapo aftermarket pullers.

my brother took one of my 1st factory puller's to work years ago and tapped it to 1/2" i believe it was because i had wore it out...still have it today(small thread/large taper crank puller).
after the repair i bought another suzuki puller and it's still in the plastic.
when i was really busy i had at least one customer a week coming in with a damaged starter clutch...big and small so i had to make sure i had the tools to fix them up...
it started becoming interesting when i would remove the stator cover to show them the problem and there rotor stayed in the cover with part of the crank still bolted on
after a loose estimate to repair the engine they would offer to sell me the bike for 100-300 bucks just to be done with it.

[rwnielsen]

my brother took one of my 1st factory puller's to work years ago and tapped it to 1/2" i believe it was because i had wore it out...still have it today(small thread/large taper crank puller).
after the repair i bought another suzuki puller and it's still in the plastic.
when i was really busy i had at least one customer a week coming in with a damaged starter clutch...big and small so i had to make sure i had the tools to fix them up...
it started becoming interesting when i would remove the stator cover to show them the problem and there rotor stayed in the cover with part of the crank still bolted on
after a loose estimate to repair the engine they would offer to sell me the bike for 100-300 bucks just to be done with it.

In my original post of this thread I neglected to mention that the missed shift happened in 2003. I've had a few other bikes (K100, R12S & S1000RR) since then and it sat in the dark corners of the garage waiting. I sold the S1000 a few weeks ago and rolled out the old Suzuki. I always liked this bike and, in fact, bought a second one for friends to ride. The second one had too many issues and is now a donor bike. I decided to get this one running rather than just give it away. It has a surprising amount of power for such a big heavy bike. I hope it's either the starter clutch or the main clutch. My gut feeling is that it's that long plastic piece the cam chain tensioner pushes on. I sure hope I'm wrong.

[rwnielsen]

A missed shift precipitated the onset of the noise according to the OP. Not likely a wear out problem. Could be starter, but i would pull the clutch cover first.

Thanks for your help. I did the search thing for the rotor and have a couple calls out to dealers to see if I could rent a puller. APE doesn't carry pullers but gave me a couple ideas and I did find a few on-line. I'll stick the cover back on and check the clutch.

[posplayr]

Thanks for your help. I did the search thing for the rotor and have a couple calls out to dealers to see if I could rent a puller. APE doesn't carry pullers but gave me a couple ideas and I did find a few on-line. I'll stick the cover back on and check the clutch.

Do not use any puller other than the style you see and even then the aftermarket ones are likely to break. Use MAP gas and not propane to heat the rotor hub when trying to pull.

I hope you are big and strong as well, I used two 18"+ breakers in a dead lift (foot on one, both arms on the other) to get mine to pop off the first time. After that subsequent removals are much easier.

Use red locktite when you put it back on.

[rwnielsen]

Do not use any puller other than the style you see and even then the aftermarket ones are likely to break. Use MAP gas and not propane to heat the rotor hub when trying to pull.

I hope you are big and strong as well, I used two 18"+ breakers in a dead lift (foot on one, both arms on the other) to get mine to pop off the first time. After that subsequent removals are much easier.

Use red locktite when you put it back on.

If i can locate a puller I'll follow your advice. MAP gas and red loctite.

Thanks again
Rich