Don't rush prepping race bikes or how to learn to love low oil pressure

[Kyler]

You're still going to have to drop the sump on the current motor. Can you do it in the frame ? Most of the swarf won't get past the oil pump pickup screen in the sump so you might not see anything in the remote filter. If there is debris in the remote filter, don't forget to wash out the lines and filter case....

thanks - good to know. more to come.

[Kyler]

I have a 15 psi pressure gauge connected to the rear sensor plate. With 750 gears and top end oiler, I can still peg the 15 psi gauge when reving but it also doesn't take too much to drain the pan. This is with a stock Oil pan.

thanks. I'll add this to my 1100 motor file.

[Gammaboy]

I have a 15 psi pressure gauge connected to the rear sensor plate. With 750 gears and top end oiler, I can still peg the 15 psi gauge when reving but it also doesn't take too much to drain the pan. This is with a stock Oil pan.

Can you clarify what you mean by "drain the pan"?
Are you running a stock pickup?
The stock pickups are terrible and will pull air easily because the highest point of the pickup is 1" above the bottom of the sump. Blank the tubes and cut a hole in the bottom of the pickup so it will pull oil from the bottom of the sump like a modern bike (Well, anything post 1983!)...

[posplayr]

Can you clarify what you mean by "drain the pan"?
Are you running a stock pickup?
The stock pickups are terrible and will pull air easily because the highest point of the pickup is 1" above the bottom of the sump. Blank the tubes and cut a hole in the bottom of the pickup so it will pull oil from the bottom of the sump like a modern bike (Well, anything post 1983!)...

Based on watching the pressure gauge when reving out the engine (2nd 3rd gear),

The pressure gauge will ramp quickly and peg the gauge at 15 psi, and as I recall it will drop quickly after a few seconds. It comes right back.
All stock 1983 gs1100ED (pan, pickup).
I don't remember pressure dropping to zero but perhaps back down to 10 psi from 15 psi. It is all happening pretty quick and not data logged.
It is possible it is related to a slow shift, it has been awhile. My recollection was I assumed the pickup was running on air for a moment or two.

[Gammaboy]

My recollection was I assumed the pickup was running on air for a moment or two.

Well, I guess if it's a stock pickup - that's probably pretty likely combined with the oil surge from acceleration.

[Kyler]

Well, I guess if it's a stock pickup - that's probably pretty likely combined with the oil surge from acceleration.

sounds like an oil accumulator is needed to put an 1100 in a sidecar

[rapidray]

Kyler, feel free to call me at 714--356-7845 if you want answers on the 1100 motors. I have over 30 of them & have built & raced them since they came out. They are a MUCH better engine than the 750 engine you currently race. Pretty bulletproof in fact! Making those 80-82, plain bearing 750 engines live is a losing battle unless you are splitting the cases to look at the bearings several times a year. I used to road race those engines also & they had a bad oiling system for high rpm use.
Ray.

[Kyler]

Kyler, feel free to call me at 714--356-7845 if you want answers on the 1100 motors. I have over 30 of them & have built & raced them since they came out. They are a MUCH better engine than the 750 engine you currently race. Pretty bulletproof in fact! Making those 80-82, plain bearing 750 engines live is a losing battle unless you are splitting the cases to look at the bearings several times a year. I used to road race those engines also & they had a bad oiling system for high rpm use.
Ray.

I will definitely be calling! Give me a few days as I have to get my third 750 running before Barber and I have family coming into town. I pick up a GS1100 motor early Nov and will be prepping it over the winter.

[Gammaboy]

sounds like an oil accumulator is needed to put an 1100 in a sidecar

If it was me, I'd get a 3/4" spacer cut to space the sump plate down (increasing capacity), baffle the heck out of the sump and rework the pickup so it pickups from the bottom of the sump - or build a swinging pickup. Or even sort of drysump it (run a scavenge pump and pick up from a couple of places in the bottom of the sump, feed a small drysump tank, run a line form tank to factory pump inlet - plumbing it would suck, but it'd be bulletproof)

[rapidray]

but it'd be bulletproof)

No such thing as "Bullet proof" on an 80-82 plain bearing, GS750 motor. Sorry, that is just a fact!
Ray.

[Gammaboy]

No such thing as "Bullet proof" on an 80-82 plain bearing, GS750 motor. Sorry, that is just a fact!
Ray.

God no - I wasn't talking about that, was talking bout the 1100!

[Kyler]

After an interlude of family visits, I finally got the bike unloaded.

First thing I did was a compression test (done cold carbs open). I did three each tests.
#1: 105, 105, 105
#2: 80, 65, 80
#3: 70, 90, 90
#4: 120, 120, 120

but I should have started with the filter - it is full of filings.

On to motor #3.

[Kyler]

my day went downhill quick. I pulled motor #3 out and started tearing it down. The mud dauber nests were bad enough but then I noticed EVERY exhaust flange bolt had been cut off. I popped the valve cover and the cams were galled too. {sigh} Looks like this season is over.

[rapidray]

Don't give up so quickly. If you have 3 engines you should have enough parts to make ONE good one. Call me if I can help.
Ray.

[Kyler]

Don't give up so quickly. If you have 3 engines you should have enough parts to make ONE good one. Call me if I can help.
Ray.

I only had one race left this season and it is more a case of put the money where I want to be next year versus sink $$ into a motor won't use again after this season. I'll be selling off carbs and other decent bits from the 3 motors to help pay for the 1100.