Engine tickover and timing

[Guest]

Hi Can anyone help me please. Ive a 1982 GS750 engine and I really cant get it to tick over. Its fine when its in the garage, but after riding it for 15 mins and it warms up it wont tick over, it just gets slower then dies even if i adjust it higher. Ive tried looking for vacuum leaks, different plugs, resetting the timing, and had the carbs apart more times than I can to count.

I wondered if it was the timing but ive set that (1 and 4) , however I have Dyna S electric points, so I don't know how to set 2 and 4 timing as there are no timing marks. The electronic units are separate so do suppose I need to ??

Thanks

[Steve]

When you have had your carbs apart all those multiple times, did you ever DO anything to them, or did you just take them apart and put them back together?

They really should be CLEANED and have new o-rings installed to make sure they will work properly. Not sure what chemicals you might have there that would approximate our Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip, but the o-ring kit is a no-brainer, get that from cycleorings.com. Although the kit is rather inexpensive, it might cost as much to ship as it does to purchase. Regardless, it's worth its weight in gold (or in Pounds Sterling, if you prefer).

I just helped install a Dyna S system. When checking the timing, the timing for 2&3 was just as perfect as 1&4 were, so you might need to worry about any difference there.

Are your valves adjusted?

Are the pilot (mixture) screws set properly on the carbs?

.

[ned-999]

Hi thanks for the reply. When Ive taken them apart its to clean them but i used carb spray, which I suppose doesn't soak them and to change the jets and change float height. Does soaking them make a big difference. When you say o ring kit is that just for the mixture screw or are there others |I cant remember. Thanks

[cowboyup3371]

Please go to Basscliff's site and download this file - http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf - making sure you follow the procedures in it. ORings can be bought from www.cycleorings.com and you'll want new bowl gaskets

[ned-999]

Hi Thanks for the download. Its a great guide. Il have a go and see what happens

[ned-999]

Hi Ive taken them apart and the pilot needle looks different to the ones on the internet. Has the PO used some wrong pilots ?needle.jpg

[Gooner]

Looks like the the point has broken off on the needle, check to see if it is still stuck in carb

Hi Ive taken them apart and the pilot needle looks different to the ones on the internet. Has the PO used some wrong pilots ?[ATTACH=CONFIG]36575[/ATTACH]

[ned-999]

Hi no they are all the same. Im starting to think the reason it wont tick over is because the straight diameter in the end of the pilot screw is always in the carb hole, and if I wind it back 3 turns it makes no difference because its not opening up the flow. Does anyone have jets like these or are they the wrong ones. Cheers

[ned-999]

they are not the same as these needle 1.jpg

[DimitriT]

Idle problems like you are seeing are due to the wrong pilot circuit mixture. I had the same problem until I went through the carbs and
readjusted the float heights according to the correct procedure using a vernier caliper's height gauge. But that's just one way the carbs
can deliver too much gas during idle (or not enough air). I say too much because a bike that idles better when cold than when hot usually
is getting too much gas in the idle circuit. You might have a blocked idle air jet (unlikely) or you might have the wrong size idle jet or the
wrong pilot circuit fine tune needles (like your picture). Or your carbs might just be way out of sync.

There could also be issues in the motor. You might need to adjust the valves (although this usually is the cause of hard starting rather than
idle) or poor compression.

I would start with the Basscliff guide which is a good procedure to do anyway for a bike coming back into service. If that doesn't fix your
problem then you're going to have to try different things and hopefully find the cause.