1150 starter not disengaging

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  • Carter Turk
    Forum Sage
    Charter Member
    • May 2002
    • 2282
    • Bellingham Washington

    #1

    1150 starter not disengaging

    Added photos at end of thread. Trying to fire up the bike for the first time since June. Fresh oil, plugs, rings, piston, left end, starter clutch, used rotor....and the starter or starter clutch is staying engaged.

    My Proto torque wrench only goes up to 800 in/lbs, so I heard the click and went further with a 1/2 drive socket. They say max is 126 ft/lbs

    on the rotor nut. Which is what?-1512 inch/lbs. New thrust washer against the crank and new copper shim inside the starter clutch. Rather bummed, but I

    wasn't expecting it to go smoothly for some reason. I did notice the larger starter clutch gear was turning one way like it's supposed to, but had a fair amount

    of resistance. It's been pouring rain, but let up, so plan was go break-in the motor this afternoon. Not gonna happen now.

    Any thoughts, advice appreciated, thanks.
    Last edited by Carter Turk; 02-08-2015, 12:41 PM.
    GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
  • Guest

    #2
    My guess is one of the springs popped out when you were fitting the rotor/clutch or the rotor is too far in on the crank taper.
    Weird since the rotor had no wear at the taper and the crank end is new.
    Did you use the dowel on the rotor? Did it seat all the way?
    Are the bolts the correct length and not eating your stator?

    Comment

    • Carter Turk
      Forum Sage
      Charter Member
      • May 2002
      • 2282
      • Bellingham Washington

      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366
      My guess is one of the springs popped out when you were fitting the rotor/clutch or the rotor is too far in on the crank taper.
      Weird since the rotor had no wear at the taper and the crank end is new.
      Did you use the dowel on the rotor? Did it seat all the way?
      Are the bolts the correct length and not eating your stator?
      Chef thanks for responding
      All the above was done, however, when I just pulled the rotor off minutes ago, it appears the large starter gear was pressing firmly into the copper shim or whatever you call it in the SC. The dowel was too long at first, but I grinded it down, so that appeared to be seating properly. Actually, I told the mechanic it was riding high in that spot and he ground it down some more. Still not enough maybe???

      The copper thrust washer that fits behind the larger starter clutch gear, appears "proud" of the the recess it fits into behind the gear which I think is correct.

      It was relatively easy to remove the rotor, compared to previous recent attempts. I was worried that my partially stripped rotor puller was going to damage the

      rotor I just bought from you. Eventhough it doesn't appear worn, I wonder if shimming the taper with floss or pop can might help matters?
      GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

      Comment

      • blowerbike
        Forum Guru
        GSResource Superstar
        • Aug 2008
        • 7057
        • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

        #4
        main bearing then thrust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
        you should not be having these problems.
        Last edited by blowerbike; 02-07-2015, 10:07 PM.

        Comment

        • Carter Turk
          Forum Sage
          Charter Member
          • May 2002
          • 2282
          • Bellingham Washington

          #5
          Originally posted by blowerbike
          main bearing then trust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
          you should not be having these problems.
          Correct, that is the order.
          GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

          Comment

          • blowerbike
            Forum Guru
            GSResource Superstar
            • Aug 2008
            • 7057
            • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

            #6
            so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?

            Comment

            • rapidray
              Forum Guru
              GSResource Superstar
              • Oct 2006
              • 8195
              • So Cal

              #7
              Pull the rotor/starter clutch assembly back off to look at EVERYTHING before you hurt something that will cost you a LOT of money!! Call me if you need to.
              Ray.

              Comment

              • blowerbike
                Forum Guru
                GSResource Superstar
                • Aug 2008
                • 7057
                • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                #8
                sharing is caring

                Comment

                • Rob S.
                  Forum Guru
                  Past Site Supporter
                  • Dec 2013
                  • 9396
                  • New York City

                  #9
                  Originally posted by blowerbike
                  main bearing then trust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
                  you should not be having these problems.
                  You can't trust those washers.

                  Sorry...
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                  Comment

                  • blowerbike
                    Forum Guru
                    GSResource Superstar
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 7057
                    • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                    #10
                    Originally posted by blowerbike
                    main bearing then thrust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
                    you should not be having these problems.
                    what you talkin bout willis?

                    Comment

                    • Rob S.
                      Forum Guru
                      Past Site Supporter
                      • Dec 2013
                      • 9396
                      • New York City

                      #11
                      Originally posted by blowerbike
                      what you talkin bout willis?
                      It's like I used to tell my students about calling it the "insertion point" instead of the "cursor" - you're revealing your age.
                      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                      Comment

                      • Carter Turk
                        Forum Sage
                        Charter Member
                        • May 2002
                        • 2282
                        • Bellingham Washington

                        #12
                        Originally posted by blowerbike
                        so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
                        Yes... I care to share. Was almost just tempted to bump start it and do my break-in the hard way on a flat road.
                        GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

                        Comment

                        • blowerbike
                          Forum Guru
                          GSResource Superstar
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 7057
                          • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                          #13
                          if you choose that way then do it with the SC and rotor removed.
                          now tell me...
                          so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
                          Last edited by blowerbike; 02-07-2015, 11:07 PM.

                          Comment

                          • Carter Turk
                            Forum Sage
                            Charter Member
                            • May 2002
                            • 2282
                            • Bellingham Washington

                            #14
                            Is this a trick question? I thought I tried that when I pulled the rotor for inspection, although the rotor bolt was not on, so the rotor was spinning with the SC.

                            I'll try again in the AM.
                            GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

                            Comment

                            • blowerbike
                              Forum Guru
                              GSResource Superstar
                              • Aug 2008
                              • 7057
                              • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                              #15
                              very simple...
                              with your complete assembly installed...all but the idler gear..
                              will your large SC gear spin one way easily and smoothly and when spinning in the opposite direction does it engage and lock into place(will not turn).
                              try this several times just to confirm.
                              this can be checked off the bike but with your continuing problems...they need to be checked on the bike after it is impacted down.
                              what is causing the binding? that is the question.

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