Are There Different Size Suzuki Bucket Depressor Tappet Tools? Something's Wrong.

[Guest]

I'm ready to check the shim gaps on my '80 GS850 before progressing farther, but I'm struggling mightily. My tappet depressor says "A01-29", with an "s" further to the right....can't recall where I bought it, but was pretty sure it showed as being suitable for my '79 GS750, and I assumed it'd work on the GS850. I noticed that most others say "MP 08-0017 Suzuki". Is it possible I have the wrong tool?

Here's what I'm running into. With the cam lobe facing forward, the gap in #1 exhaust is huge - like 1.25mm. The #1 shim is 2.55. Can't get the tool to work in ex side of #2....doesn't seem to fit. Tried rotating the cams a bit, and check ex on #4...can't get the tool to depress the bucket on that one....it just doesn't grab. The cams are in the correct positions, look fully seated and properly centered, the cam bearing caps are fully seated and in the right order, the tach gear is engaged and moves when I rotate the motor, the chain idler is seated and the chain centered on it, and the timing looks to be correct. I haven't yet installed the chain tensioner....does that make a difference in the shim gaps? Any other suggestions or ideas as to why this isn't going like it's supposed to?

I can take some pics if it'll help....

Thanks for any insights!

[Steve]

Several warning flags are going up here:

I have not yet installed the tensioner

Gap on #1 exhaust is 1.25mm

Cams are in the right position

First of all, install the tensioner, but make sure the chain has not slipped off the correct teeth on the cams.

Once you have the chain properly tensioned, make sure you have the cams in the proper postiion. With the lobe of EX1 pointing forward, EX2 will be pointing UP. Without moving anything, check clearance on EX1 and EX2. Still at 1.25mm? Keep in mind that is only 25 TIMES the proper clearance, so something is definitely wrong.

Your tool should work on any GS with two valves per cylinder, but good luck using it. I prefer the "zip-tie method" to prevent damage from shattered shims.

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[Guest]

Thanks....exactly why I posted....too many red flags. Can you point me to the "zip-tie method"?

[Steve]

It's in "the library", about half-way down the left column.

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[Sandy]

If it's the right one it will fit all the older shim type valves as far as I know. Some people have trouble using it and some people have no trouble using it. It is the right tool for the job and personally I don't like sticking things where they don't belong.

[Guest]

I attached the chain tensioner, and nothing changed. Assuming it had nothing to do with the tensioner not being installed, and it's not the tappet tool, what other possibilities are there? Anyone see anything wrong?

[TeamDar]

The tool is used to remove the shim.....it is not used when checking the clearance.

[Guest]

The tool is used to remove the shim.....it is not used when checking the clearance.

Well that should make a big difference! Thanks for setting me straight!

[chuck hahn]

yup...check the clearance without the tool depressing the bucket. And get a et of Hemostats to get ahold of the shims once you pop then up out of the buckets. Use a real fine flat tip screw driver in the provided notch in the bucket to lift them.

Rotate the notch to one side of the other of the cam before inserting the tool so you can flick the shim up. AND the tool has a tendency to slip off the bucket edge so I use a screw driver with a little side pressure against the tool while I am camming the tool down. Makes life so much easier that way.

[Guest]

From a quick check, things are now much closer to normal....not right yet, but at least not 25x out or range! My smallest feeler is 0.038mm....it won't fit under any of the cams, so it looks like I'm tight across the board. I can round up a smaller feeler, but I'm not confident that there's any clearance at all right now. Thanks to all for guiding a rookie!

[Sandy]

If you can't get a feeler gauge in the tight ones but you can easily spin the shim and bucket you might get away with just one shim size to get the right clearance but possible to need two sizes. While you're in there pull the shims one at a time and record the size and position. Most of the time you can usually swap some shims around rather than buying or trading for all different ones. Do not rotate the engine without a shim in there. Some people use a quarter as a temporary placeholder. Steve who posted above about the ziptie method has handy excel spreadsheet for doing shim inventory and calculations, look at the bottom of his post. Very handy to have. Oh yeah, the clearances tighten up with more miles so favor the loose side of the spec.

[Steve]

... Steve who posted above about the ziptie method has handy excel spreadsheet for doing shim inventory and calculations, look at the bottom of his post. Very handy to have. ...

I just sent him is own personal copy.

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