84 1150 rebuild question(s)

[Guest]

Hi Folks,
Last year she got her forks updated with Sonic springs, deleted the anti dive, new stator and a CompuFire reg'r, tyres and brakes.
Now it was time to address the leaky cyl. base gasket, at the left front; what a pain of a job..
All is apart, head has new seals, valves and seats looked good, so just a hand lap, head is flat within .003in, so no machining.
I suspect it has been apart before my ownership..
Old base gasket was a steel shim, so only the silver coating to clean off, cannot see why it was leaking, all nuts were still tight.
The cyl studs are all out, some were very tight, they are various diameters between the threads as well as lengths, this will have given different stretch characteristics, which may be immaterial, or is it for the oil? I am replacing with APE hd studs and nuts, which do not have the reduced diameters, I ass u me that oiling will still be adequate with them...
My motor # is V701-101798, per the partsoutlaw picture where I ordered most of the parts, I was expecting to find O rings around the 4 centre back studs, but there are no counter bores in the case for them and I found no rings there, so not sure, guess I have 4 spare rubber rings...
I intend to use "Hylomar" sealant on the base gasket for insurance, do not intend to do this job again.. and I can coat the top once the pistons, with their new rings, are back in their holes.
Thinking of leaving some studs out until the cylinders are back on, to give better access, is this a good idea?
Planning to try and make 2 ring compressors from split plastic pipe and hose clamps, hoping it will then be doable on my own; this is my 1st 4 cylinder rebuild putting pistons in from below..
Too much for one post?
Also, have new O rings for the liners, but do not see the need for them, what am I missing?
Will appreciate comments from our resident experts..
Need to get it finished so I stop looking / thinking about buying something else..
Many thanks

[Carter Turk]

I just went through this process back in February on my 1150 Kat. I don't recall any o-rings on the studs, but did ask the same question on this site, regarding the cylinder sleeve liners. I did not replace them, they were intact.

As far as leaving the studs out...why?...for better access to what? I'm no expert, but had luck supporting cylinder 2-3 with a slotted support to fit around the connecting rods, to hold up the piston skirts, then slide the block down evenly, taking care to gently squeeze in the rings, especially the flimsy oil rings and spacer. Then rotate the crank taking up cam chain slack and do 1-4.

Don't forget the 2 dowel guides when fitting the block to the case like I did. I forgot one when swapping blocks for big bore sleeves.

Somebody more experienced may chime in.