.png "Powered by vBulletin")
I am removing the valve cover to check my valves. I read in Basscliff's notes that the tach drive needs to be removed. Does the tach drive need to be removed before removing the valve cover, or just on the install to line up the tach drive gears? Also the tach drive sleeve has a broken mounting tab from po. For 82 there seems to be 2 types of sleeves. One with a permanent tab and another, if my memory is correct, with a tab that fits into a slot. Seems to me the slotted version would hold up better,but would it fit?
-
Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple
, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES
-
I know this is an old thread, but I just ran into a similar problem. My 82 GS1100GL was leaking oil from the tach. I went to remove the sleeve and broke it off inside. Not the tab, but the sleeve, UGH! It did come out but I had to order a new drive gear as well. In all it set me back $54 after shipping. I was able to grab the end of the drive gear with vice grips and pry against them to pop the whole thing out.Roger
Current rides
1983 GS 850G
2003 FJR 1300A
Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400 -
Thats why its a good idea to push out from the inside. There is a small gap to use a screw driver to push the drive out. And NO you don't have to take the drive out as it sits under the cams and no way is involved in taking off and replacing the valve cover. Even when installing cams you just have to be carefull when tightening the cams down to have the worm drive lined up with the drive on the ex cam.Comment
Comment