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Valve lapping questions – compressor suggestion, lapping compound, is it even needed?

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  • blowerbike
    replied
    8 valve models have larger valves.
    16 valve models have smaller valves.
    right off the top of my head that means you need different size valve lapping sticks/cups.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andrew Vanis
    replied
    Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
    post #2 assumes your bike has shim and shim buckets...aka an 8 valve model rather than a 16 valve.
    for someone not knowledgeable in the differences, what should i be concluding from that? aka-what difference does it me for my style of valves?

    Leave a comment:


  • blowerbike
    replied
    post #2 assumes your bike has shim and shim buckets...aka an 8 valve model rather than a 16 valve.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andrew Vanis
    replied
    Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
    if it's the bike in the op's sig....it's a rocker arm valve train...
    just sayin...

    it is on that bike. this is teh valves I have - http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...LVE/parts.html

    What are you trying to convey in your message?

    Leave a comment:


  • blowerbike
    replied
    if it's the bike in the op's sig....it's a rocker arm valve train...
    just sayin...

    Leave a comment:


  • Nessism
    replied
    Most definitely remove the valves and lap, and replace the valve stem seals.

    For the spring compressor I'd get the one labeled "nice box". It's cheap and good enough.

    Any general purpose lapping compound is fine. Lapping is mostly just to clean the valve surface anyway. If you are spending more than 1 min. per valve it's too much.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andrew Vanis
    replied
    Also, what kind of lapping compound?

    this one has a nicer case (latches specifically) and at $18.50 only $1.50 more than least expensive Ebay and free Prime shipping http://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Clam...=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

    still not ordering it unless if lapping is even needed or at least a REALLY good idea in my case. More detail requested of all ya'll readers.
    Last edited by Andrew Vanis; 05-31-2016, 09:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andrew Vanis
    replied
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    Check with gasoline in the combustion chambers, if it's not leaking
    How?
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    and if your compression is good then there's no need to take lap anything.
    Can’t do that with the head already off I don’t; think, Or can I?

    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    Unless it's smoking there's no reason to take anything else apart.
    Don’t; know since it hasn’t ran for a while – are you talking shome in the exhaust or off the crankcase from the external oil leaks?

    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    One school of thought. The other school is while you're in there, replacing the valve stem seals might be a good idea, just because they are 35 years old and likely hard as a rock.

    I would do it just because it seems like a good idea.
    Yeah, what’s another $80 OEM ($30 aftermarket) but if I don’t need to touch the valves, I’m inclined to leave in what is in there.

    Ahh so I need one with extensions on the C for both sides. Good to know.

    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    Replacing the cylinder base gasket is also a good idea, if it gets disturbed at all when the head is off it will leak.
    That would require reseating the cylinders no? Pricewise not much $11 gasket and 4x$5 orings. Really inclined to leave this one alone considering the cylinder work and the issues of maybe not seating the rings right.

    Leave a comment:


  • tkent02
    replied
    Check with gasoline in the combustion chambers, if it's not leaking and if your compression is good then there's no need to take lap anything. Unless it's smoking there's no reason to take anything else apart. One school of thought. The other school is while you're in there, replacing the valve stem seals might be a good idea, just because they are 35 years old and likely hard as a rock.

    I would do it just because it seems like a good idea. This is the only one of your three that will work on these heads:



    Because the valves are down inside the bucket bore.


    Replacing the cylinder base gasket is also a good idea, if it gets disturbed at all when the head is off it will leak.

    Leave a comment:


  • Valve lapping questions – compressor suggestion, lapping compound, is it even needed?

    Valve lapping questions – compressor suggestion, lapping compound, is it even needed?

    About 14K miles on my engine. Have the head off to replace leaking gasket. Gasket is $70 so don’t really want to take the head off again. Wondering if I should lap the valves and how would I know/check if they need it?

    If the answer is yes, then:

    Where do I get lapping compound and what kind do I get?

    Which of these spring compressors would be good?

    Universal and I like the lever idea - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Spring...JU7yJE&vxp=mtr

    Nice box - http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Sizes-Valv...245929&vxp=mtr

    “Professional” - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilde-Tool-6...469915&vxp=mtr

    Too bad the Autozone loan-a-tool compressor doesn’t seem to work (or does it?) - http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...ing-compressor

    I saw the 4-age lapping PDF off basscliffs site and Steve’s DIY PVC spring compressor video is no longer active.
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