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    #16
    Sorry if I was unclear. The adjustment at the lever fixed my slippage. I did see the adjustment procedure in the manual. I guess my question is whether the lever adjustment is just a temp fix and I still need to adjust under the LH cover as described in the manual, then reset the lever adjuster for 4mm of play like the manual asks for.

    Anothet look at the manual suggests I wrong about the LH cover and the smaller clutch adjustment access cover. I don't think I have to worry about messing up the clutch just by removing either cover.
    I'll admit I barely understand how this clutch works. Need to find a youtube or something.
    Last edited by hannibal; 07-25-2016, 05:50 PM.
    Jordan

    1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
    2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    1973 BMW R75/5

    Comment


      #17
      If adjusting the clutch up at the handlebar perch fixed the problem, don't mess with the adjustment screw down below. This is for when the cable is changed and then they give you a start from scratch procedure that ends up mucking with the screw, most likely. If the clutch isn't slipping, don't fix what ain't broke, in other words.

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        #18
        Thanks geol. But I was spoke too soon. I've noticed that the clutch slipped far more when the oil was cold and went away as the bike warmed up. It seems that my adjustment at the lever didn't really fix the problem. I just happened to adjust it after the bike was warm and thought that fixed my slippage. I'm going to order the clutch springs, clutch cable, and clutch cover gasket. If I find damage on the current cable when I adjust "down low", I can just swap in the new cable and continue adjusting. If the new cable and/or adjustments don't solve the problem, I'll continue with changing out the springs (and gasket). Hopefully this heat will be gone by the time the parts arrive.
        Jordan

        1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
        2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
        1973 BMW R75/5

        Comment


          #19
          The block will expand as it warms. This will increase the slack in the cable system. Not ENOUGH slack causes slippage. You need some free movement when cold, which will become greater free play as the engine warms. It sounds like you adjusted the free play with a warm engine and lost the slack when cold.

          This is a major reason why they moved the clutch mechanism to the right side; it remains [more] consistent with temperature.
          '82 GS450T

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            #20
            To be honest, it felt like I was just adding slack when I adjusted at the lever. Which explains why the manual says to adjust at the motor first, then set slack at the lever.

            The manual says to loosen the lock nut, unscrew the screw, then screw it back in until you feel resistance. I guess this moves the rod out to the point where it just begins to disengage the clutch.

            If I can get this last screw on the LH cover to loosen, I'll give this a try this weekend. And I'll definitely do this when the bike is cold.
            Jordan

            1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
            2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
            1973 BMW R75/5

            Comment


              #21
              If you have the original case screws in, get you a manual impact driver or you will end up stripping the screw head. While you can get one at Harbor Freight, they are pretty sugstandard so ge5 a good one that will last a lifetime of use:

              Shop Sears for appliances, tools, clothing, mattresses & more. Great name brands like Kenmore, Craftsman Tools, Serta, Diehard and many others.


              I have had my manual Craftsman impact driver for over 40 years... have had to buy new driver bits but the driver itself still works far better than any other I have used.

              Comment


                #22
                Well guys hang my head in shame, thought i had a nos cable turns out not so, put on a new genuine one and my god what a difference thanks all for help.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Glad to hear the cable solved your issues!

                  Originally posted by geol View Post
                  If you have the original case screws in, get you a manual impact driver or you will end up stripping the screw head. While you can get one at Harbor Freight, they are pretty sugstandard so ge5 a good one that will last a lifetime of use:

                  Shop Sears for appliances, tools, clothing, mattresses & more. Great name brands like Kenmore, Craftsman Tools, Serta, Diehard and many others.


                  I have had my manual Craftsman impact driver for over 40 years... have had to buy new driver bits but the driver itself still works far better than any other I have used.
                  Just picked up an impact driver from home depot last week. Had to order it and wait almost 2 weeks. That last screw is kinda stripped but hoping the bit has enough bite for the impact driver to work. Already have my replacement allen head bolts.
                  Jordan

                  1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                  2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                  1973 BMW R75/5

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Just wanna say I got the stubborn cover off this weekend. Took about 2 minutes to adjust the clutch by loosening the adjusters at the lever and case, following the adjustment procedure in the manual, then resetting the lever and case adjusters. I could instantly tell the clutch felt better just rolling around in the yard. I got it out on the street and no more slipping! Thanks for the advice guys!!

                    Next up: chain and sprockets...
                    Last edited by hannibal; 08-08-2016, 01:56 PM.
                    Jordan

                    1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                    2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                    1973 BMW R75/5

                    Comment

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