Starter clutch failure

[Dogma]

To be honest, I haven't paid the closest attention to starter clutch threads. Is this the result of the dreaded starter kick-back?



In case that link turns out to be less than permanent, here's Google Photo's "share" link. You can zoom in on it there too.

The other two are showing bulges, but haven't torn through yet. The starter motor just spins. I used to get the occasional kickback, but have had an electrical intervention for that installed for a season or two. No unusual metal on the oil drain plug.

This happened (or maybe culminated) last fall at the Motoworks Gingerman track day, the morning before I crashed. Joe Nardy's prediction was that the clutch and rotor had come loose from the crank. These last few months I've been afraid the crank's taper would be all chowdered. So I'm honestly relieved to see this. Availability of the starter clutch assembly looks problematic though. Nothing on eBay at the moment and reverse part number lookup suggests this clutch was only on the 1000G. Is replacement the only fix?

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The stator I installed after the 2010 RRR with a series regulator looks like new. Around 20-25,000 miles on it.

[Steve]

To be honest, I haven't paid the closest attention to starter clutch threads. Is this the result of the dreaded starter kick-back?

... Is replacement the only fix?

Yes, I believe that is the result of kick-back. I have heard that it's possible to weld it closed, but I don't have a welder, so have never tried it.

I might have one for you, but can't guarantee it's from a 1000, let alone a G. You would have to bring the rotor up to see if it would bolt up.

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[Dogma]

Yes, I believe that is the result of kick-back. I have heard that it's possible to weld it closed, but I don't have a welder, so have never tried it.

I might have one for you, but can't guarantee it's from a 1000, let alone a G. You would have to bring the rotor up to see if it would bolt up.

.

Ah, here's the answer to my question in the parts wanted post. Removal requires the special tool, right?

[chuck hahn]

Look at the center of the rotor once you take out the bolt that hold it to the crank. If the rotor has larger threaded hole in the center its a 16 X 1.25 thread. I may be wrong on the pitch but it IS 16MM. Anyways, get a hardened bolt..or 1 with a 1.25 pitch and 1 with 1.50 pitch... and thread it in the hole and use a impact to remove the rotor.

If it has a big hub with threads on the outside youll need the special puller. Once the rotors off and you take off the clutch you can tap that rip down and weld it. Clean the clutch and rotor well with brake cleaner so there is no oil left. Use red loctite on the bolts that hold the clutch to the rotor. Wait about an hr or so for the loctite to cure before running the bike.

EDIT-- Since the clutch will be off you may consider putting in new springs too. Just as a preventative measure of course s the springs do weaken and eventually snap. Myself, I go to the Dollar store and get a cheap pack of clicker style pens and use the springs. They are a bit tougher and have been working fine for me for a long time now.

[Fjbj40]

16mm x 1.50 thread for removal bolt.

While you are at the bolt depot get yourself 3 new Allen socket bolts, 8x1.25 about a inch long, highest grade metric, for reassembly of starter clutch. Use the red lock-tite as suggested.

Do yourself a favour and also replace the 9 replaceable parts, 3 each of rollers, springs and pistons with OEM Suzuki stuff, it's cheap enough. http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemp...starter-clutch
check item 11 for damage, it can be sanded out if not too bad.

Hope you have an impact gun.

[Dogma]

Thanks for the info, guys. The hub does have threads on the OD, so it looks like I need to get the tool. Definitely I'll be replacing everything that looks like it might have wear or is cheap enough to do anyway.

I don't have a welder, and I don't know anyone I'd trust with that job. Is there anyone who provides that service in the same way as welding clutch baskets, etc. in case I can't find a replacement?

I'm rather surprised that Suzuki designed these so the pins can bottom out against such thin material. I want to get a closer look at that.

[chuck hahn]

Thanks....couldnt remember if it was 1.25 or 1.50 pitch. Mines at the storage unit so I couldnt throw a pitch gauge at it. Think mines grade 8 bolt too...dark almost black in color.

[chuck hahn]

Throw up a pic of the side of the rotor where a puller would go.

[chuck hahn]

The special puller is basically a bell shaped deal with a M38 X 1.50 female thread and a long bolt that goes down the center and pushes off the crank. Motion Pro has them for about 40 bucks I think

[Dogma]

eBay has a ton of them for $18. You can't miss them when searching for starter clutches.

The threads are pretty visible on the parts diagram. If there's something else you need to see, let me know what so I can make sure it gets into a shot.

[Fjbj40]

Looking at the parts fiche they show the same p/n for the rotor. Maybe try the bolt for ****s and giggles, you never know

[Dogma]

Hang on, I didn't see that before; threads on the ID as well. Didn't I read someplace once upon a time that it's the same thread as a swingarm pivot pin? I might have one of those from an 850 parts bike. I need to get out the rattle gun and take off that first screw. But not tonight.

[Big T]

If you've been getting kick back, you'll probably find that the surface of the starter gear looks like the 7 dwarves have been hammering on it.
Mine sure did

[steve murdoch]

A little late to this thread but i will ask anyways.
Dogma, in your original post you said...."i used to get the occasional kickback"
How or what does this entail? Is there a metal on metal grinding, a clunk, a delayed start to the starter motor spinning?

[850 Combat]

It looks like some of the parts aren't available any more. Last one I did, I replaced both the big gear, and the bearings for it. They were not shown as available in the link. I did use either Partshark or Bike Bandit, probably. I thought that my gear was too wobbly. The new bearing and gear fixed that up. I do know that wherever I bought the parts, the bearing was a single substitute, not the double shown as the original bearing. I tried to buy the OEM bolts too, but I suspect that they were hardware grade.

Good luck