Finding neutral when rolling

[Guest]

I've found neutral easily when accelerating at near redline from first to second

[TxGSrider]

Does it get easier to find neutral after the bike is good a warmed up? Mine can be a little difficult cold but gets better after it warms up especially when the outside temps are below 60 or so. Ive blamed on oil drag and maybe a thinner oil would help but it hasn't been enough of an issue for me to be concerned. Im sure mine would be more noticeable if I lived up north where the temps are allot cooler.

[dorkburger]

A couple of thoughts. My bike shifts smoother with fresh oil in it. You've mentioned that it shifts fine, but maybe take note after the next oil change. Also, could it just be a matter of getting to know the bike? Mine is also a bit fiddly finding neutral from a stop, but when rolling, a quick light tap down from second finds neutral most of the time.

As mentioned, in neutral at a stop robs you of precious time if you spot impending doom.
The mentioned fancy footwork seems like nothing but a distraction from soptting the mentioned inpending doom. In first, clutch in, front brake applied, and scanning the surroundings seems much simpler and safer.
I recently saw a BMW dual sport rider at a light. I guess he was trying to anticipate the green light, because he began repeatedly pulling in the clutch and preparing to put it in gear as the green approached. It seemed silly.

[JJ]

btw, it is good practice when sitting at red lights to have the bike in neutral, left foot down, right foot up and rear brake on.

No. Wrong. The best practice is to have it in FIRST gear, clutch in, left foot down, right foot on rear brake. This gives you the quickest way to accelerate to your pre-planned escape route if a vehicle violates your space.

[GS1150Pilot]

No. Wrong. The best practice is to have it in FIRST gear, clutch in, left foot down, right foot on rear brake. This gives you the quickest way to accelerate to your pre-planned escape route if a vehicle violates your space.

Agree 100% with this.

[Guest]

This started out because I thought I had a technical problem. So far no one's been too concerned about my under spec steels, so I'm not buying any clutch parts just yet. I've been worried about some of the other things I've read about transmissions and such. That day may come If I ever decide to get back into this bike for a first class rebuild. In the meantime , I can easily live with this. I can always find neutral, I just can't usually find it as I'm rolling to a stop. Why wouldn't you want to be able to do that? As for the other thing, everybody should know how to be ready for a quick exit. I also like to think I know when to be ready.

[TxGSrider]

This started out because I thought I had a technical problem. So far no one's been too concerned about my under spec steels, so I'm not buying any clutch parts just yet. I've been worried about some of the other things I've read about transmissions and such. That day may come If I ever decide to get back into this bike for a first class rebuild. In the meantime , I can easily live with this. I can always find neutral, I just can't usually find it as I'm rolling to a stop. Why wouldn't you want to be able to do that? As for the other thing, everybody should know how to be ready for a quick exit. I also like to think I know when to be ready.

I don't think the under spec metals would hurt anything as long as they are flat. In fact it should make it easier to find neutral as theres less chance of drag. Now its possible theres notches worn into the basket or hub that might cause some minor issues, but they can be smoothed out pretty easy.

[wymple]

We don't need another oil thread, but game on. Mine was shifting perfectly with no drag around neutral (after getting the new clutch cable right). To take a trip to Kansas I changed the oil, and induced the problem immediately. Not getting into brands or weights, here, but I could have spent a lot of time & aggravation if I hadn't gotten the problem directly with the oil change. I've had several bikes in my time with no neutral problems, the best clutches in the business for my money are the old Viragos.

[Cipher]

Did yah chek the pates for flatness? A sheet of glass is likely the flattest thing you will have about the house.

[Steve]

Did yah chek the pates for flatness? A sheet of glass is likely the flattest thing you will have about the house.

From the very first post:

... The springs were fine, the steels were flat, and there was no excessive gouging on the clutch basket. ...

.

[Cipher]

not just steels all need to be flat. Even an apparent small deviation may be significant.

[Guest]

I hadn't thought about the glass trick. I'll definitely remember that next time I have them out. I'm using Suzuki 10 40, just like back in the day.

[wymple]

Also make sure your adjustment isn't giving you a false feel up at the lever on the bars. Mine felt right with a new cable but it was not pulling the clutch lever far enough. I have mine set with only the slightest of free play down at the bottom lever.

[eil]

No. Wrong. The best practice is to have it in FIRST gear, clutch in, left foot down, right foot on rear brake. This gives you the quickest way to accelerate to your pre-planned escape route if a vehicle violates your space.

Took too many comments for someone to finally mention this. I will sometimes shift into neutral while sitting at a very long light to give my clutch fingers a break (as long as there is already one car stopped behind me) but I can't think of a single valid reason why you'd want to shift into neutral while rolling. Neutral is *supposed* to be hard to find while moving. It's a safety feature.

[Cipher]

rolling a cigarette maybe? HA! no but really why does he need to find neutral?