Oil Filter stud...arrrgghhh

[sam000lee]

Yup, what you are looking at is an extractor broken off inside a drilled out oil filter stud. The first stripped one came out like butter, so we thought: Why not the second? Well, after snapping it pretty much flush with vice grips, we were able to get a bit of weld onto it and then get it loose with the vice grips again. Cut off the extra weld with a dremel and then drilled it out with left handed bits. Since we had got it to turn I went for the extractor but now here we are.

It's my buddy's 1977 GS550. What are my options?

[Nessism]

I wish people would stop using those stupid extractors. There are countless threads here about guys busting off extractors.

[Steve]

It's my buddy's 1977 GS550. What are my options?

Talk him into a 650 or 750?

.

[derwood]

clean it really well, then weld a nut to to it.
maybe a washer and then a nut, and turn it out with a wrench
if it breaks off then weld another nut to it.....etc

[sam000lee]

clean it really well, then weld a nut to to it.
maybe a washer and then a nut, and turn it out with a wrench
if it breaks off then weld another nut to it.....etc

Tried that but there isn't really enough material to get a decent weld on.

I wish people would stop using those stupid extractors. There are countless threads here about guys busting off extractors.

What would you do in this situation/before you were in this situation?

[Nessism]

What would you do in this situation/before you were in this situation?

Welding something to the stud is best but if you don't have a welder I'd use LH drill bits. Start with the smallest drill bit and work up. Work the bit sideways as needed with the smaller sizes to be sure you are centered in the old screw. By the time you work up in size near the screw diameter the bolt will just be a shell and it will spin out while drilling.

[derwood]

It looks like there is enough there
get a better mig welder and / or a better operator
practice on some scrap
(the weld won't stick to aluminum)

[fbody_mike]

I will also say welding onto the broken bits is the way to go. I had a bleeder screw broken off in a caliper that was 3 mm below the surface and it took 12 attempts but I was able to get it out with my little mig. I have extracted many bolts from exhaust ports using the same technique. I have found letting everything cool down for 5 mins after the weld increases the chances of the nut not breaking off the part to be extracted. Between attempts clean the broken part so you can get a good bond.

[Nessism]

Heat from welding breaks down the bond too. PB Blaster and a propane torch works on bolts, as long as there is enough bolt sticking out that is.

[chuck hahn]

If you get it out go t auto zone with the rest the stud. Tell them you want exhaust studs with the same thread. In goes an exhaust stud and done. Same with fork cap studs. The ones ive used were in blister cards on a peg board display.

[chuck hahn]

Guess you could just install a short hunk of threaded rod as well.

[Phred]

I did the same thing with the bolt on the starter cover. The head snapped off and the bolt was flush with the casing. Ended up drilling several tiny holes around the broken bolt into the casing and then getting at the broken bolt with an arsenal of tools til I could twist it out. Filled the holes with JBWeld and redrilled and retapped the hole. It took about three hours.

[sam000lee]

Thanks all. Sounds like I'll try the welder again. I have the correct studs from Suzuki to put in afterwards.

[sam000lee]

Got a bit of weld on the end and ended up getting it with vice grips










Gently sanded down the area just to get the burrs off and then but a very small coat of RTV just around that stud. So far no leaks.

[Charlie G]

I love a story with a happy ending....