Engine is out, what things do you normally look for?

[Burque73]

So I checked valve clearance.... For the most part they were all between .07-.08mm.
Except the two intake valves on the center cylinders. One was .13mm, the other .11mm. Both had a 2.60 shim, ordered two 2.65 shims.
Any reason as to why the two center intakes are set so wide? Cam lobes look completely fine and spring resistance feels good.

Methods include motion pro type tool to depress buckets, and zip tie to hold valves open enabling you to grab the shim. Which method did you use.

Another consideration is whether you were able to check two valves without rotating the crank, or if you rotated the crank for each valve. The idea there is that the neighboring bucket/ shim would not be pushing up on the cam giving you an incorrect measurement on the one you're checking. Maybe that's confusing, but someone else may chime in with a simpler way to explain it.

[Guest]

The way I checked it:
Rotate the motor to the proper cam position, checked with feeler gauge, rotate 180? and checked again. Did that for each valve. Used the little valve compressor tool thing that I borrowed from a friend to remove the disc and document the thickness.
Just the two center cylinder intakes had a lot of gap. All the others were at the upper end of spec.

[Guest]

Previous previous owner used the wrong procedure to measure valve clearances.

Which method did you use?

Cam chain stretch has a spec in the manual. X length over y pins

Just visually looking and feeling the cam chain, it looks to be in very good shape.

I agree with the possibility that the previous previous owner may have had an issue on those two. If the motor was in the bike with the tank on and carbs on, it would be a real PIA to get to those two. With the motor out, it?s easy to work on.

[unfocused]

I look for a way to get it back in... no?

Valve adjustment - #1
Timing chain tensioner working, adjusted
I have mine in pieces and my guides/chain look really well (unknown age)
I have to replace the head (posted) because of something else but aside from re-sealing from the block up, valve adjusting and syncing the carbs, I'm not replacing anything.

Disclaimer: I am replacing/rebuilding the cylinder head so adjusting the valves is a gimmie. But if you have the engine out, it's so much easier to do it now

[Guest]

Getting the chassis back together.....2566A127-44D1-4195-A8E0-F6202714A66C.jpg

[hannibal]

The way I checked it:
Rotate the motor to the proper cam position, checked with feeler gauge, rotate 180’ and checked again. Did that for each valve. Used the little valve compressor tool thing that I borrowed from a friend to remove the disc and document the thickness.
Just the two center cylinder intakes had a lot of gap. All the others were at the upper end of spec.

That is not the correct procedure. See page 3-5 is the manual: http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage...S-L_Manual.pdf

[Guest]

That is not the correct procedure. See page 3-5 is the manual: http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage...S-L_Manual.pdf

THANK YOU! Greatly appreciated! I?ll recheck right now.

[Guest]

That is not the correct procedure. See page 3-5 is the manual: http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage...S-L_Manual.pdf

Did it by the procedure. Still gauging at .009mm on the two center intake valves.

Thanks again!

[Guest]

Done. I have the needles set too high, boggs at midrange but runs at top end like a champ.

https://youtu.be/Dc_oh3SEGDQ