GS1100 16V head bolt installation question

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    #1

    GS1100 16V head bolt installation question

    Hi, does the cylinder head bolt need any type of sealant/thread locker at block end?
    Or just need thin coat of oil on the thread?
    And how to best torque the bolt?
    Thanks in advance.
    Steve
  • posplayr
    Forum LongTimer
    GSResource Superstar
    Past Site Supporter
    • Dec 2007
    • 23673
    • Tucson Az

    #2
    Originally posted by ls428
    Hi, does the cylinder head bolt need any type of sealant/thread locker at block end?
    Or just need thin coat of oil on the thread?
    And how to best torque the bolt?
    Thanks in advance.
    Steve
    There are no head bolts; you talking about block/head studs?

    probably do not need sealant, not sure about thread locker?

    So blue or red would not hurt anything.

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    • GregT
      Forum Sage
      • Jul 2009
      • 3541
      • New Zealand

      #3
      Originally posted by posplayr
      There are no head bolts; you talking about block/head studs?

      probably do not need sealant, not sure about thread locker?

      So blue or red would not hurt anything.
      Don't use thread locking compound on head studs - either end.

      I've seen several engines where the top case threads have come out with the stud because locking compound was used.
      Lightly oiling will suffice.

      Comment

      • posplayr
        Forum LongTimer
        GSResource Superstar
        Past Site Supporter
        • Dec 2007
        • 23673
        • Tucson Az

        #4
        Originally posted by GregT
        Don't use thread locking compound on head studs - either end.

        I've seen several engines where the top case threads have come out with the stud because locking compound was used.
        Lightly oiling will suffice.
        That is completely counterintuitive ; why would thread locker cause them to walk out?

        The only thing i could think is that if you used Blue (lower temperature rating) it might fail under engine temps.

        You would think that the Green would hold assuming it was not over temped. Not sure why you would need it and not questing putting them in lightly oiled, but even that would not seem to make a difference as they are not torqued are they?


        Could not find anything in the manual about studs..............
        Last edited by posplayr; 12-14-2019, 04:55 PM.

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        • GregT
          Forum Sage
          • Jul 2009
          • 3541
          • New Zealand

          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr
          That is completely counterintuitive ; why would thread locker cause them to walk out?

          The only thing i could think is that if you used Blue (lower temperature rating) it might fail under engine temps.

          You would think that the Green would hold assuming it was not over temped. Not sure why you would need it and not questing putting them in lightly oiled, but even that would not seem to make a difference as they are not torqued are they?


          Could not find anything in the manual about studs..............
          Read what I said. When the studs are removed the thread may come out with the stud if locking compound is used.
          I did not infer they'd come out by themselves.

          You may like inserting helicoils in damaged cases. I'd sooner avoid it.

          Comment

          • posplayr
            Forum LongTimer
            GSResource Superstar
            Past Site Supporter
            • Dec 2007
            • 23673
            • Tucson Az

            #6
            Originally posted by GregT
            Read what I said. When the studs are removed the thread may come out with the stud if locking compound is used.
            I did not infer they'd come out by themselves.

            You may like inserting helicoils in damaged cases. I'd sooner avoid it.
            Actually I did read what you said. You did not say removing the studs.

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