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Removing the cylinder head: Should I leave the oil in, or drain it?
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Originally posted by Sandy View Post
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Originally posted by ZombiePotatoSalad View PostNo harm in asking. I plan to ask around at local machine shops, but couldn't today, with it being Sunday. If it costs more than buying a new head, then I'll just buy a new head. Found one on eBay, but I'll have to wait until next month, when my next disability check comes in: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-SUZUKI...m2108#viTabs_0
This Head you linked on ebay has more problems then you already have. At least one bent valve, and at least 2 exhaust bolt holes that have been heli-coiled. the other 6 are suspect. I'd stay away from that one.
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Originally posted by ZombiePotatoSalad View PostThat's what I've been doing, with a regular drill. Something of a pain, and that's probably why the new hole is off center.
That right angle drill looks like it would solve a lot of problems...
But it will have to wait until next month.
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Originally posted by bwringer View PostHm, seems there's a bit of history with this one...
FWIW, you can reach the intake boot screws with a drill with the engine in the frame.
I've used a right-angle adapter, but a right angle drill is maybe $25 with a coupon at Harbor Freight and would be the better way to go.
HF also has a set of left-handed drill bits that work quite well.
Of course, there's a lot of technique involved in doing this successfully.
But there's no way I would even consider removing an engine or a cylinder head just for a broken intake boot screw.
That right angle drill looks like it would solve a lot of problems...
But it will have to wait until next month.
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Somehow I missed the broken bolt is on an intake boot, thought it was a valve cover bolt. Never mind, move along now...
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Hm, seems there's a bit of history with this one...
FWIW, you can reach the intake boot screws with a drill with the engine in the frame.
I've used a right-angle adapter, but a right angle drill is maybe $25 with a coupon at Harbor Freight and would be the better way to go.
HF also has a set of left-handed drill bits that work quite well.
Of course, there's a lot of technique involved in doing this successfully.
But there's no way I would even consider removing an engine or a cylinder head just for a broken intake boot screw.
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Originally posted by allojohn View PostOK, you should live with the leaky valve cover gasket and work on getting the bike running better. Again, the broken bolt can wait and is not contributing to the poor running conditions. Your focus now is the valve shims - you have to get this right or all else will be adversely affected. At a later date replacing the valve gasket with a Tennessee Real Gasket may stem the leak. Heck, I'll have one sent to you.
And I was told that air leaks will bork up how an engine runs. I can get the proper valve shims, but will still have that misaligned hole. A screw goes in it, yes. But it doesn't bite well now that I removed it again.Last edited by ZombiePotatoSalad; 05-17-2020, 05:13 PM.
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Originally posted by phydeauxmutt View PostYou have all that correct, but you forgot one critical part.
Even the best of us are not able to remove that broken bolt, fill the hole that was improperly drilled, then drill and re-tap a proper hole for the proper bolt. You will have to take that to a machinist, and the bill there will probably be more than what you spent for the bike. You will also spend at least that much for all the proper gaskets.
With your lack of finances and apparent mechanical expertise, are you SURE you want to tackle this?Last edited by ZombiePotatoSalad; 05-17-2020, 05:05 PM.
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Originally posted by ZombiePotatoSalad View PostIt does run, but not well. I can only run it with the choke out (minimum is a finger's width from the bottom before it dies). If I keep running it with the valve shims too tight, I'm worried that's going to cause more damage in the long run. I got this bike for $200, and it clearly wasn't maintained. When you buy a used bike, you often buy someone else's problems. But it was either that, or wait for a "someday" which would never come.
I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.
Get the shims done and sort the carbs out.
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Originally posted by ZombiePotatoSalad View PostIt does run, but not well. I can only run it with the choke out (minimum is a finger's width from the bottom before it dies). If I keep running it with the valve shims too tight, I'm worried that's going to cause more damage in the long run. I got this bike for $200, and it clearly wasn't maintained. When you buy a used bike, you often buy someone else's problems. But it was either that, or wait for a "someday" which would never come.
I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.
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Originally posted by ZombiePotatoSalad View PostI need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.
Even the best of us are not able to remove that broken bolt, fill the hole that was improperly drilled, then drill and re-tap a proper hole for the proper bolt. You will have to take that to a machinist, and the bill there will probably be more than what you spent for the bike. You will also spend at least that much for all the proper gaskets.
With your lack of finances and apparent mechanical expertise, are you SURE you want to tackle this?
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Originally posted by Agemax View PostThe more you take apart, the more money its going to cost to put it back together again, so why not just leave it and do just the bare essentials to get it running. No more, no less.
I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.
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Originally posted by Datsa Noydb View PostLast edited by ZombiePotatoSalad; 05-17-2020, 01:46 PM.
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The more you take apart, the more money its going to cost to put it back together again, so why not just leave it and do just the bare essentials to get it running. No more, no less.
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