Removing the cylinder head: Should I leave the oil in, or drain it?

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

I don't know about the 550 but on the GS1000 I got a straight shot at those screws and removed them with my Vessel impact driver without stripping them by removing the rear wheel, inner fender and battery box. If you can do that on the 550 it would be a lot easier than removing the head.

I had to remove the carburetor and the plastic thing that links the carburetor and airbox. Still something of a tight fit for a regular drill and bit.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

No harm in asking. I plan to ask around at local machine shops, but couldn't today, with it being Sunday. If it costs more than buying a new head, then I'll just buy a new head. Found one on eBay, but I'll have to wait until next month, when my next disability check comes in: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-SUZUKI...m2108#viTabs_0

This Head you linked on ebay has more problems then you already have. At least one bent valve, and at least 2 exhaust bolt holes that have been heli-coiled. the other 6 are suspect. I'd stay away from that one.

[Sandy]

That's what I've been doing, with a regular drill. Something of a pain, and that's probably why the new hole is off center.
That right angle drill looks like it would solve a lot of problems...
But it will have to wait until next month.

I don't know about the 550 but on the GS1000 I got a straight shot at those screws and removed them with my Vessel impact driver without stripping them by removing the rear wheel, inner fender and battery box. If you can do that on the 550 it would be a lot easier than removing the head.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Hm, seems there's a bit of history with this one...


FWIW, you can reach the intake boot screws with a drill with the engine in the frame.

I've used a right-angle adapter, but a right angle drill is maybe $25 with a coupon at Harbor Freight and would be the better way to go.

HF also has a set of left-handed drill bits that work quite well.

Of course, there's a lot of technique involved in doing this successfully.

But there's no way I would even consider removing an engine or a cylinder head just for a broken intake boot screw.

That's what I've been doing, with a regular drill. Something of a pain, and that's probably why the new hole is off center.
That right angle drill looks like it would solve a lot of problems...
But it will have to wait until next month.

[allojohn]

Somehow I missed the broken bolt is on an intake boot, thought it was a valve cover bolt. Never mind, move along now...

[bwringer]

Hm, seems there's a bit of history with this one...


FWIW, you can reach the intake boot screws with a drill with the engine in the frame.

I've used a right-angle adapter, but a right angle drill is maybe $25 with a coupon at Harbor Freight and would be the better way to go.

HF also has a set of left-handed drill bits that work quite well.

Of course, there's a lot of technique involved in doing this successfully.

But there's no way I would even consider removing an engine or a cylinder head just for a broken intake boot screw.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

OK, you should live with the leaky valve cover gasket and work on getting the bike running better. Again, the broken bolt can wait and is not contributing to the poor running conditions. Your focus now is the valve shims - you have to get this right or all else will be adversely affected. At a later date replacing the valve gasket with a Tennessee Real Gasket may stem the leak. Heck, I'll have one sent to you.

I know, but I have to wait until at least the 3rd of next month, when my deposit comes in, in order to buy valve shims. Most sites that sell them individually are sold out, but I believe dimecitycycles sells them individually. Speaking of shims (since no one is replying to my last thread), I swapped Intake #1 with Intake #4 (2.70 and 2.60X, respectively). Intake #1 now has light drag at 0.04 and 0.03, my two thinnest blades (I don't remember if there's 2 zeros, or just one, and I can't be bothered to go back downstairs to check. I just pushed a Ninja EX500 across slick plywood and soft ground, and then came upstairs, I'm drained). But yeah, I don't know which to mark it as.
And I was told that air leaks will bork up how an engine runs. I can get the proper valve shims, but will still have that misaligned hole. A screw goes in it, yes. But it doesn't bite well now that I removed it again.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

You have all that correct, but you forgot one critical part.

Even the best of us are not able to remove that broken bolt, fill the hole that was improperly drilled, then drill and re-tap a proper hole for the proper bolt. You will have to take that to a machinist, and the bill there will probably be more than what you spent for the bike. You will also spend at least that much for all the proper gaskets.

With your lack of finances and apparent mechanical expertise, are you SURE you want to tackle this?

No harm in asking. I plan to ask around at local machine shops, but couldn't today, with it being Sunday. If it costs more than buying a new head, then I'll just buy a new head. Found one on eBay, but I'll have to wait until next month, when my next disability check comes in: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-SUZUKI...m2108#viTabs_0

[Agemax]

It does run, but not well. I can only run it with the choke out (minimum is a finger's width from the bottom before it dies). If I keep running it with the valve shims too tight, I'm worried that's going to cause more damage in the long run. I got this bike for $200, and it clearly wasn't maintained. When you buy a used bike, you often buy someone else's problems. But it was either that, or wait for a "someday" which would never come.
I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.

All that can be done with the engine intact. If you cant get good access to remove the broken bolt, take the engine out. That costs nothing and gives you much greater ease of access.
Get the shims done and sort the carbs out.

[allojohn]

It does run, but not well. I can only run it with the choke out (minimum is a finger's width from the bottom before it dies). If I keep running it with the valve shims too tight, I'm worried that's going to cause more damage in the long run. I got this bike for $200, and it clearly wasn't maintained. When you buy a used bike, you often buy someone else's problems. But it was either that, or wait for a "someday" which would never come.
I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.

OK, you should live with the leaky valve cover gasket and work on getting the bike running better. Again, the broken bolt can wait and is not contributing to the poor running conditions. Your focus now is the valve shims - you have to get this right or all else will be adversely affected. At a later date replacing the valve gasket with a Tennessee Real Gasket may stem the leak. Heck, I'll have one sent to you.

[phydeauxmutt]

I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.

You have all that correct, but you forgot one critical part.

Even the best of us are not able to remove that broken bolt, fill the hole that was improperly drilled, then drill and re-tap a proper hole for the proper bolt. You will have to take that to a machinist, and the bill there will probably be more than what you spent for the bike. You will also spend at least that much for all the proper gaskets.

With your lack of finances and apparent mechanical expertise, are you SURE you want to tackle this?

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

The more you take apart, the more money its going to cost to put it back together again, so why not just leave it and do just the bare essentials to get it running. No more, no less.

It does run, but not well. I can only run it with the choke out (minimum is a finger's width from the bottom before it dies). If I keep running it with the valve shims too tight, I'm worried that's going to cause more damage in the long run. I got this bike for $200, and it clearly wasn't maintained. When you buy a used bike, you often buy someone else's problems. But it was either that, or wait for a "someday" which would never come.
I need to replace the valve shims, easy and cheap. But that still won't do much if there's an air leak from an intake boot that isn't secured all the way. And to do that, I have to fix a screw hole. And to do that properly, I have to take the head off. The idea is to drill out the hole, re-tap it, and put a helicoil in it. But I can't do that if the head is still on the engine.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

It's even on sale!

https://www.ecotric.com/products/pre...SABEgLYifD_BwE

I already have one... but thanks, I get what you're saying...

[Agemax]

The more you take apart, the more money its going to cost to put it back together again, so why not just leave it and do just the bare essentials to get it running. No more, no less.

[Datsa Noydb]

It's even on sale!

https://www.ecotric.com/products/preorder-vortex-matt-black?variant=31618006614114&currency=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2fzZjbW76QIVTL7ACh01qg0rEAQYBSABEgLYifD_BwE