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Clutch cover allan head wont torque

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    Clutch cover allan head wont torque

    So I decided to replace the clutch cover bolts with proper ones, that werent so ugly.

    First I noticed they were all the wrong lenght (all were too short, some significantly so).

    But one of them won't torque at all, its a middle lenght one (a 7 on the fiche).



    This is the offending one.

    The PO had solved this by using a number 6 instead (that one was the longest one there. Should I just pick out a number 6 that is for something else and put it there? Or swap one of the sixes? Or helicoil? Or something else?
    GS1000G 1981

    #2
    Were it my bike Noreg, I would helicoil all of them. As you state the screws were all too short I suspect there may be damage to all tapped holes. Get correct length screws as well. If you are not planning to keep the bike just repair those holes that are proven to be damaged. Leaking clutch covers are no fun and this issue most likely will re-occur if not corrected. A torque wrench is also recommended.
    streetfighters

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      #3
      Originally posted by streetfighters View Post
      Were it my bike Noreg, I would helicoil all of them. As you state the screws were all too short I suspect there may be damage to all tapped holes. Get correct length screws as well. If you are not planning to keep the bike just repair those holes that are proven to be damaged. Leaking clutch covers are no fun and this issue most likely will re-occur if not corrected. A torque wrench is also recommended.
      streetfighters
      I use a torque wrench. The clutch cover doesn't seem to leak (yay), but the other side does. I am not confident the screws there are in the correct position (I matched them length to lenght, but then had to swap some around because some were too long).

      The stainless allan key screw set I have has the correct lenghts. I ordered a second set for the carbs (a bunch of stripped screws there and some rusty ones).

      Isnt it a bit excessive to helicoil ones that holds the correct torque? I guess if I buy the kit it won't be a lot of hassle though.
      Last edited by Noreg; 08-03-2020, 08:34 PM.
      GS1000G 1981

      Comment


        #4
        The torque wrench is your problem. Old threads often can't hold the pressure called out in the torque specs of the factory manual but they are plenty good enough for lasting service. I use a torque wrench but also back off based on feel if the screw is turning too easy.

        Edit: sorry, I didn't read the first post carefully. If the screws you bought are too short that will cause a lot of strain on the threads. I'd try to get some proper length screws and forget the torque wrench. Us a short handle 1/4" ratchet wrench and go easy on the tightness. All you need to do is snug down the screws and they won't go anywhere.
        Last edited by Nessism; 08-04-2020, 01:22 PM.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          If there's doubt as to which length of screw goes where, as a general rule, it works to push them all into the cover (without turning them into their holes) and see what length sticks out-they will all stick out the same length when correct.

          The cover itself also indicates which holes want longer bolts...

          Use an" INCH/pound "torque wrench...It's a smaller wrench and is overall more useful than a large one. Large ones cannot accurately apply the smaller (or largest) torques on their scale.
          Last edited by Gorminrider; 08-04-2020, 11:37 AM.

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