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1982 gs650g lowering
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Welcome to the site.
Mind if I ask why you want to lower it?1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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Indeed. Anything can be done. If you are of a... shorter stature... cutting down the seat might be an option. If it's just to change the looks... think long & hard as the chassis can become quite upset by slight changes in the wrong direction.Paul
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Originally posted by GrimlyWatery bints handing out swords is no basis for any system of government.
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I'd be wary of lowering a shafty, given the uni-joint in the driveline might not last too long. I'd suggest a max lowering of one inch at the rear.---- Dave
79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Don't lower the front if you don't lower the rear, it will change the steering rake, it could be a tad bit more unstable. I was thinking about the same thing on the shaft drive. It's one thing for the wheel to go up and down, but lowering it will make one of those ups and downs at an extreme. You could end up with a bad shaft. Also, the shaft won't be constantly driving at it's optimal linear rotational position. Adding a passenger makes that happen anyway, so obviously Suzuki designed it with that in mind. Lowering it though would be like adding a passenger, and more. I guess it depends on how much you want to lower it. It could have no real effect, or 20K miles from now, you'll need a lot of drive train parts. You'll have to do the math in your head. I wouldn't lower it more than an inch. IMHO
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