GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

Just my opinion but the most bangs for your buck you will get is from decent flow work on the head & some reasonable cams :-D

Mark -

Completely agree. What's the fine line between a hot street motor and something which will break constantly? I'd like as much power as possible but not at the expense of reliability. Also don't want a top end screamer either like my 06 Gixxer 750 - gotta love that broad GS torque band.

If it was me, I would do the 1100 kit, the cams and maybe carbs and a pipe. If the valves need work to restore compression or replace worn guides, then that needs doing as well. Any bottom end or tranny/clutch work would be to simply repair/replace any worn stuff and ensure longevity.

For cams I would go with a fairly mild grind, say a "hot" street cam. Avoid any racing cams, as they will gut the bottom end and move all the power up high.

My plans for my 82 1100E are an 1166cc kit, stage 1 cams, 34mm flatslides and custom 4-1 pipe (which I will build myself). I may try to find an 1150 head and small port it myself (as per Mototune USA site), but that would be pretty extravagant IMO. I am after around 130rwhp, with 80+ft-lb of torque and a dead flat torque curve. It currently dyno'd at 102rwhp and 69ft-lb of torque, uncorrected for conditions or altitude (I live at 3500+ft).

Mark

Your best bang for the buck is the 1100cc kit and cams. I would skip the porting if money is tight. The ignition stuff is a sound investment as well. I would try to find a production pipe that works unless you can get the custom one for reasonable $$$.



No it won't. You are fighting too many years of development and too much weight. My 06 GSXR1K weighs 430lb FULL of fuel and makes 160rwhp, with a super flat torque curve. It handles like a 160hp dirt bike, it feels so light. You will never approach those kinds of numbers no matter what you spend... But you WILL have one cool, unique ride that is a superb street bike. Still worth it in the end, IMO.

One thing to remember with the engine work, don't go so radical that it becomes a nasty, tempermental beast that is always breaking and has a razor sharp, top-end only powerband. One of the best features of our GS's is the great, torquey, user-friendly engines and it would be a shame to lose that basic character.

Just my $0.02

Mark

Mark -

Completely agree. What's the fine line between a hot street motor and something which will break constantly? I'd like as much power as possible but not at the expense of reliability. Also don't want a top end screamer either like my 06 Gixxer 750 - gotta love that broad GS torque band.

So Stage 1 (top end) would be:


Wiseco 1100 cc kit, cylinder boring
ported/flowed head
new valves
Web Cams, #110 grind, .395 lift.
New Dyna 2000 ignition
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
New stator/regulator
Pingel fuel tap
Black engine paint.
Custom 4/2/1 exhaust

Your best bang for the buck is the 1100cc kit and cams. I would skip the porting if money is tight. The ignition stuff is a sound investment as well. I would try to find a production pipe that works unless you can get the custom one for reasonable $$$.

I'm really curious to see if this bike'll be as fast or faster than the newer bikes.

No it won't. You are fighting too many years of development and too much weight. My 06 GSXR1K weighs 430lb FULL of fuel and makes 160rwhp, with a super flat torque curve. It handles like a 160hp dirt bike, it feels so light. You will never approach those kinds of numbers no matter what you spend... But you WILL have one cool, unique ride that is a superb street bike. Still worth it in the end, IMO.

One thing to remember with the engine work, don't go so radical that it becomes a nasty, tempermental beast that is always breaking and has a razor sharp, top-end only powerband. One of the best features of our GS's is the great, torquey, user-friendly engines and it would be a shame to lose that basic character.

Just my $0.02

Mark

[first timer]

see here

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=119702

if you don't mind can you pm me your price quotes since i am following a similar path.

[salty_monk]

Titanium retainers would reduce weight which means you can raise the rev limit. Bucket tappets I imagine is either a mod to stop valve bounce or so that shims cannot spring loose at extreme RPM's.

Dan

Welcome to my problem, start collecting parts now, and depending on your budget maybe just rehone and ring for now. You could save some money by going stock rods, that was my plan. I was going to ask Stan Gardner what he though about stock rods when he does my crank, think he is a little cheaprer then Falicon. I'll be running around 11.2:1 compresstion. Who is doing your head Speedy Steve? he is close to both of us? You plan on using under bucket tappets and shims? titanium retainers? Would say build up at least 2k in your war chest then start building this motor.

Hehe, fun costs money and lots of fun costs lots of money. I'm really curious to see if this bike'll be as fast or faster than the newer bikes.

APE is doing the head most likely because they can supply the machine work and the parts inhouse.

Their quote included race porting, new standard sized exhaust valves, new +1mm intake valves, APE valve springs, bronze valve guides, stem seals, and a performance valve job.

What's the advantage of bucket tappets and shims and titanium retainers?

[first timer]

Welcome to my problem, start collecting parts now, and depending on your budget maybe just rehone and ring for now. You could save some money by going stock rods, that was my plan. I was going to ask Stan Gardner what he though about stock rods when he does my crank, think he is a little cheaprer then Falicon. I'll be running around 11.2:1 compresstion. Who is doing your head Speedy Steve? he is close to both of us? You plan on using under bucket tappets and shims? titanium retainers? Would say build up at least 2k in your war chest then start building this motor.

[Big T]

I agree, good approach to do it in 2 stages. All that lower end stuff is expensive. Most people who I remember modding their bikes "back in the day" never had any lower end problems.

I thought you were looking a bit over the top on your spending. Doing half of that 15 years ago set me back about $1,000, with me doing all the wrench work. I didn't add cams

While I'm more on the purist end, you have inspired me to start gathering parts for my rolling parts bike. So far, and 1100 swingarm and some more Marzocchi shocks. I'm see if I can get the 850 parts bike currently on Craigslist for a song for more needed parts (bodywork, seat, dual disc front end (for my purist 1000), and whatever else I can cannibilize off of it. Then, well, you know how it goes (GSX front end and rear wheel, brakes, etc)

[renobruce]

Any disadvantage to this approach other than having to tear down the motor twice, once for the top end and once for the bottom end? Am I going to make my stock rods and crank go BANG by not doing the bottom end at the same time as the top end?

I'd say that's a good approach. With the top end off, you'll be able to check a few things out in the bottom, like checking for play on your rods and making sure your crank is straight. If it shifts good now, your tranny is probably fine, and will be with the mods.

I'm not undercutting my tranny gears.... they already are undercut to a degree. Are you going with straight-cut gears on the crank and clutch?

Here we go again.

Stock is a good starting place. If all those stock parts worked as well as the good stuff, then I'd use 'em. Fact is that modern suspension and brakes are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the stock stuff.

Eventually the tire manufacturers will stop making bias tires, then what?

Heh, I bought a high mileage, wheezy engined GS1000 for cheap with a rusty, faded tank that had sat out in the sun getting old and rusty and unridden for quite some time. The seller put some spit shine on for the first photo, it's not that purty in real life. Well, till I've put some effort into it. And it's still not too purty. Feel better now?

If people have a problem with someone creating a GS1000 that's better handling, better looking and faster than it was the day it rolled out of the factory, move onto the next thread.

Now about that engine rebuild...

remember the reply's you recieved when you started. most post told you if it was their bike in the condition it was in, to leave it alone. buy a bandit or use a bike that was tired, then youd have two. you stated you wanted something diff, looks alot like the old bikes i see alot more of.dont get me wrong i liked the idea of a wes cooley track bike. but that had the twin shocks,frontend was stock, just internals were changed, and braced. flatslides cams and punched. with what youve invested in Gixer suspension and man hours. You mighthave something close to the pictures you showed us in 06 was it.Granted you will have a fast great handleing GS 1000. but i liked the classic, you started with. Alot of us would give up our wifes for a bike like that. what am i saying. your bike was worth alot more than that!:-D S.N.

Worth more to who, you? Thats completely irrelevant. Many people have already pointed this out to him, and he has politely explained his case and left it alone. But for some reason, the PURISTS can't contain themselves and have to keep going on about it. The bike doesn't belong to you, so it doesn't really matter what YOU think it should be.

Get over it already!

GS 1000 streetfighter

remember the reply's you recieved when you started. most post told you if it was their bike in the condition it was in, to leave it alone. buy a bandit or use a bike that was tired, then youd have two. you stated you wanted something diff, looks alot like the old bikes i see alot more of.dont get me wrong i liked the idea of a wes cooley track bike. but that had the twin shocks,frontend was stock, just internals were changed, and braced. flatslides cams and punched. with what youve invested in Gixer suspension and man hours. You mighthave something close to the pictures you showed us in 06 was it.Granted you will have a fast great handleing GS 1000. but i liked the classic, you started with. Alot of us would give up our wifes for a bike like that. what am i saying. your bike was worth alot more than that!:-D S.N.

new camchain (can't replace this without splitting the cases :/ )

you should be able to do it by splitting the old one, hook up the new one to it, rotate until the new shows up, master link, voila!

at least that's the way i remember doing mine

also did my top end without touching the bottom end but i didn't go higher cc or compression rating, just new rings and a 'cleanup' of the valves and ports. that was 40,000kms ago, so far so good...

So, I got some quotes on the following parts and machine work. Holy crap, talk about expensive. Still want to get all this done, but for budget reasons I doubt it's all going to get done in one shot.

Wiseco 1100 cc kit, cylinder boring
ported/flowed head
new valves
new camchain
Carrillo rods
Falicon lightened/balanced/indexed/welded supercrank
undercut tranny
Web Cams, #110 grind, .395 lift.
New Dyna 2000 ignition
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
New stator/regulator
Pingel fuel tap
Black engine paint.
Falicon welded clutch basket
Custom 4/2/1 exhaust

Think we'll break this motor rebuild into 2 stages to spread the cost over a couple of years. The top end is the part that's sickly on this motor so we'll start there and then do the bottom end when budget allows. Any disadvantage to this approach other than having to tear down the motor twice, once for the top end and once for the bottom end? Am I going to make my stock rods and crank go BANG by not doing the bottom end at the same time as the top end?

So Stage 1 (top end) would be:


Wiseco 1100 cc kit, cylinder boring
ported/flowed head
new valves
Web Cams, #110 grind, .395 lift.
New Dyna 2000 ignition
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
New stator/regulator
Pingel fuel tap
Black engine paint.
Custom 4/2/1 exhaust

Stage 2 (bottom end) would be:

new camchain (can't replace this without splitting the cases :/ )
Carrillo rods
Falicon lightened/balanced/indexed/welded supercrank
Falicon welded clutch basket
undercut tranny